Handed hub nuts?

[mitreklov]

I have a noisy front nearside wheel bearing that needs replacing however I'm having real trouble trying to undo the hub nut. I have attacked it with 4' breaker bar but no amount of torque seems to want to shift it.
Does anyone know if the threads on the hub nuts/shaft are handed and therefore could I be turning the nut the wrong way?
If I can't shift it by undoing it I'll have to take a cold chisel to it but I'm a little worried about damaging the shaft threads so I thought I ask first.

Anyone any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks

Tim

[Brit-Car-Nut]

They are NOT handed. Both sides use the same part numbered nut. They are "Right Handed" meaning they tighten by turning to the right and loosten by turning to the left.

There are no tricks suggested in the service guide but the staking process is used to prevent the nut from turning and the indentation needs to be completely released. Check to make sure ALL of the staked metal is out of the groove. The torque required for the nut is 166 to 173 foot pounds, so really tight. You should replace the nut: A100R6002F is still an active part number at Lotus and they list for 8.71 each + VAT.

While the car is still on the ground, unbend the indentation to unlock the nut. The stake can be a pain to release. Have someone apply the brakes and then using a safe socket and breaker bar, remove the nut turning it counterclockwise.

[mitreklov]

Thanks for the prompt response and confirmation that the hub nuts are not handed. Now that I have that element of doubt removed I'll have another go and double check I've unbent all the metal from the indentation.

Thanks again.

Tim

[dapinky]

Hi Tim,

having done mine last week I can say that they are likely to be extremely tight, but only for the first tiny bit of the turn - once they're cracked off they should undo with little more than a hand grip on the socket.

I was expecting to have to use a piece of scaffold bar on my 4' bar, but on the drivers' side it came off with hardly nowt, and on the passenger side just the bar with 17stone of useless weight on the end caused it to shift - that said, someone had obviously tried to economise by re-using the hub nuts and not having any metal to pein over the end of the shaft - they think my life isn't worth 2 quid!

To be honest, the bendy bit of metal at the end of the nut is so soft (to enable it to bend!) that it won't matter if it isn't totally clear of the splines when you try to undo the nut - but it is obviously easier if it is.

Have you already got your new bits yet?

If not, I can recommend j and r for the hub nuts - far better than Lotus prices (I know the advert says it's for an elise, but as Lotus gave both Elan and Elise the same part number, I risked it - and yes, they fit fine). Have a good look at the CV boots whilst you're under there - there have been plenty of threads about which replacement to use, but again, I went for the Elise ones from J & R.
For £20 i got 4 rubber boots (with all the clips to fit them), all the grease, 2 new hub nuts and a plastic cone to fit the boots onto the CV joints [which I didn't use] - bargain!

With all the hassle to get this far it seems a shame NOT to change them if in any doubt about their condition - you don't even need to take the whole shaft out of the car to do it, so you don't lose all your transmission oil.

As far as the bearings themselves go, they are a common enough size/part to get either locally or on ebay........

......but some of the makes are ones I don't know so can't comment on......

....wheras we all "know" that SKF are the best make to have, so i just found somewhere that sold them for less than the 'cheaper' ones!.....mr. auto

Both companies offer free shipping, and one was next day delivery, the other was the day after - but as i ordered it in the evening, that was to be expected.

[mitreklov]

Good call Dave on the J and R web site, I had already sourced the nut and bearings but with new gaiters at a fiver a go it seems silly not to, especially as the outer one on the side I'm working on is one of those split glued ones and I'm not sure how long they last.
Thanks for the info.

Tim

[mitreklov]

Just to conclude this thread, I ended up cutting the nut off as no amount of force that I could apply was going to shift it.
It turns out the thread on the drive shaft had been damaged previously and this combined with some corrosion made it so difficult to remove. I managed to get a M22 x 1.5 die and recut the thread, replaced the CV gaited, new bearings pressed on courtesy of the local garage and all back together now. The car so much quieter without that drone form the front bearing.

Thanks all for the advise.

Now on to the next challenge, getting the heater to produce some heat…..

Tim

[epipete]

Now on to the next challenge, getting the heater to produce some heat…..

Tim

Challenge? You don't know 'alf But fortunately, there are many on this site who do! So ask away.

[lotusnut]

You are right it IS a challenge, I did mine last year, complete dash out job, I would try disconnecting both heater hoses under the bonnet and flushing through both ways with a hosepipe first.It may not work, mine didn't, good luck.
BTW if your car has not got an oxygen sensor and you're thinking of fitting one, IF you have to remove the dash, thens the time to fit the wiring.