Homemade Jacking bar.

[JohnB]

Just thought I'd share this idea I had for jacking up the Elan and getting it safely on stands. I've used 2 lengths of 2"x 2" x 1/8th" steel box section, one for each side of the car and I drilled holes to line up with the front and rear jacking point pegs. Above the holes I've welded on 7/16" deep rings/washers to give clearance for the sill and spread the weight.
You need to use a low profile jack, (3-1/2") and place it at a point on the bar towards the front so that you lift the front and rear at the same rate. This allows you to jack up the complete side of the car at once and place stands directly below the jacking points. Repeat this on the other side and alternate until you to get to the desired height.
I found it works a treat and the height you can get is only limited by the jack you use. I found jacking up in stages going from side to side and resetting the stands each time is the best and safest way.
I've included a few photos.
Hope this is of some use to members.

[esprit888]

Awesome

[HJ2]

top tip!

[hatters]

Great substantial piece of kit
super idea youl have to get it patented

[Elanlover]

I don't suppose you have the dimensions you used, do you? Specifically, the length of the bar (as I've had a quick look and noticed that you can't just run a piece from wheel arch to wheel arch due to some contouring under the body) and the spacing of the holes? If not I'll just measure them but thought I'd ask if you had them handy. Thanks!

EDIT: Also, I'm curious to know how much bending the bar does where you put the trolley jack. I ask because, since I've lowered the car, I don't think I can get a 2.x bar under the sills with the semi-low profile trolley jack I have now. So, In either buy new jacks or use a rectangular bar of 2.5x1 or something like that so I can get the jack under it. So I'm wondering if that bar will bend under the load given that it won't be as "thick" as a straight 2x2 bar.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

If you lowered the car, why not just get 4 planks of 2x8s or so and set them in a way that you can drive on to them and that will give you more distance between the floor and the jacking points. If you need more, add additional pieces of 1x8 thickness?

Putting a slope on the leading edge will make it easy to drive on to them... Not as difficult as driving up onto true ramps.

[Elanlover]

If you lowered the car, why not just get 4 planks of 2x8s or so and set them in a way that you can drive on to them and that will give you more distance between the floor and the jacking points. If you need more, add additional pieces of 1x8 thickness?

Putting a slope on the leading edge will make it easy to drive on to them... Not as difficult as driving up onto true ramps.

I gave that some thought and it might be suitable for some instances. However, I suspect there will be times when the car isn't driveable but still needs to be lifted. Also, my garage is on a bit of an incline and I normally chock all the wheels before lifting with a jack. Not sure I will be able to chock the wheels if they are on 2x8's. So, I'd prefer to have a solution that works for multiple cases but will settle for something like blocks to raise it up first if that's all that will work. Might need thicker than 2x8 as well.

[JohnB]

I don't suppose you have the dimensions you used, do you? Specifically, the length of the bar (as I've had a quick look and noticed that you can't just run a piece from wheel arch to wheel arch due to some contouring under the body) and the spacing of the holes? If not I'll just measure them but thought I'd ask if you had them handy. Thanks!

EDIT: Also, I'm curious to know how much bending the bar does where you put the trolley jack. I ask because, since I've lowered the car, I don't think I can get a 2.x bar under the sills with the semi-low profile trolley jack I have now. So, In either buy new jacks or use a rectangular bar of 2.5x1 or something like that so I can get the jack under it. So I'm wondering if that bar will bend under the load given that it won't be as "thick" as a straight 2x2 bar.

Hi.
I'll measure the bars and post them on here.

[Elanlover]

Hi.
I'll measure the bars and post them on here.

Excellent! Many thanks!

[JohnB]

If you lowered the car, why not just get 4 planks of 2x8s or so and set them in a way that you can drive on to them and that will give you more distance between the floor and the jacking points. If you need more, add additional pieces of 1x8 thickness?

Putting a slope on the leading edge will make it easy to drive on to them... Not as difficult as driving up onto true ramps.

I gave that some thought and it might be suitable for some instances. However, I suspect there will be times when the car isn't driveable but still needs to be lifted. Also, my garage is on a bit of an incline and I normally chock all the wheels before lifting with a jack. Not sure I will be able to chock the wheels if they are on 2x8's. So, I'd prefer to have a solution that works for multiple cases but will settle for something like blocks to raise it up first if that's all that will work. Might need thicker than 2x8 as well.

I've measured the jacking bars and the approx' measurements are as follows : -
Overall length of the 2" box section is around 50 and 3/4" (1290mm). Shouldn't be any shorter.
I drilled 2 holes (big enough to go over the jacking pegs) in the box section, the same distance apart as the jacking point pegs. The hole centres are approx' 48 and 3/8"(1230mm)
To spread the load and give some sill clearance, I welded two rings of 3"(75mm) diameter with a depth of approx 7/16"(15mm) onto the box section in line with the drilled holes. (I used old Land Rover anti roll bar washers but anything you can find of a similar size will do the job. The holes in the rings are about 1"(25mm)
I tried using smaller than 2" box section and even aluminium box section but it flexed too much. I think 2"x2"x1/8" box section is what you need to use.
Also,if you look at the photos in my original post you'll see a yellow line on the bar, this is the balance point where you put the jack to lift the car evenly front and rear.
Remember, you will only be jacking one side of the car at a time so when you jack up the O/S, the N/S will still be on the floor so you can chock that side and/or apply the h/brake till you get the O/S on stands.
Hope this helps.

[Elanlover]

Excellent, thanks!

[Elanlover]

For the record, having gone out and bought some square tube, had it cut, drilled and some washers welded on (wish I had my own drill press and mig welder), this is a fantastic idea. The car is up and seems pretty stable on 4 jack stands. I used slightly thicker walled square tube (.188 inch instead of .125) as I'm a born "over-engineer-er" and I see no deflection in the tube at all when jacking.

Makes for a "relatively" cheap car jacking system instead of buying a $1,000+ hydraulic system to do the same thing that won't likely get quite as high. Simple yet effective - great idea JohnB!

[JonJon]

I'm guessing this wont work on an S2.

[JohnB]

For the record, having gone out and bought some square tube, had it cut, drilled and some washers welded on (wish I had my own drill press and mig welder), this is a fantastic idea. The car is up and seems pretty stable on 4 jack stands. I used slightly thicker walled square tube (.188 inch instead of .125) as I'm a born "over-engineer-er" and I see no deflection in the tube at all when jacking.

Makes for a "relatively" cheap car jacking system instead of buying a $1,000+ hydraulic system to do the same thing that won't likely get quite as high. Simple yet effective - great idea JohnB!

I'm really pleased you found my idea helpful and that it works as well for you as it does for me.

[JohnB]

I'm guessing this wont work on an S2.

Don't know whether it will work on an S2 or not. Next time I get a chance to have a look under an S2 I'll report back.

[HJ2]

Works on an S2 as well, if you weld square metal parts at the ends of the rear bar and cover them with rubber !