port size 22mm

[rob/d]

O.k , so it's been nice out so i thought i'd get the waste gate ported this weekend .
Got turbo and manifold off the car ( not as easy as you would think ) split apart , and now have a very good condition waste gate port ready to be enlarged .

BIG QUESTION !!!!

20mm , 21mm or 22mm ?
Any thoughts , opinions before i start cutting ?
B.T.W . hoping this cures over boost and shut down after fitment of ebay stainless exhaust and K+N filter last year.
Pictures to follow .
Thanks in anticipation

[e42]

Hi, I have just had a Piper 2.25" exhaust fitted, with PCE, wastegate also in good condition and ported to 21mm on my SE. Drives very well, feels more lively than before, no sign of any boost creep, awaiting confirmation of existing chip before upgrading to Everest.

Regards,

Dom

[rob/d]

I'm thinking 21 mm or 22 mm because I don't want to have to do it twice so thanks for the reply .

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Make sure the flap will close the new opening. Several said 21mm is as large as possible... Don't just start cutting, measure 3 or 4 times and cut just once.

[rob/d]

Thanks brit.
I have painted around the flappy door so i can see if i'm getting carried away .
Celica GT red B.T.W.
As an electrician , i learned from a tender age , you can cut always piece OFF but never cut a piece ON .

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Thanks brit.
I have painted around the flappy door so i can see if i'm getting carried away .
Celica GT red B.T.W.
As an electrician , i learned from a tender age , you can cut always piece OFF but never cut a piece ON .

What???? They don't have wire stretchers in the UK?

[Peter_W]

I'm thinking 21 mm or 22 mm because I don't want to have to do it twice so thanks for the reply .

^^^ I went to 22mm for that very reason - the result has been fantastic with no issues.
http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8837&start=180#p286712

[rob/d]

Thanks Pete.
I have a 4 days off this weekend so it's time to do it. !
.

[steve matthews]

DO IT, Feed your TURBO

Steve @ 21mm on one, 22mm on another and like the 22mm.

[rob/d]

Can't help myself.
MISSION CREEP !
While i have those heat shields off the car i have ordered some D.I.Y. bits for electroplating them in nickel .
Possibly a new topic if it works out !

[ccb056]

Here's a reference of porting sizes and boost-creep

http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Boost_Creep

[epipete]

Can't help myself.
MISSION CREEP !
While i have those heat shields off the car i have ordered some D.I.Y. bits for electroplating them in nickel .
Possibly a new topic if it works out !

Be interesting to know what you've bought.

[rob/d]

O.k !
Busy day.
So I've cleaned off and painted the manifold .
I used VHT paint , should be o.k .
I used electrolysis to clean the ironwork , go on youtube and you'll see how effective it is .
Total cost £1 for the soda crystals .
I HAVE A 22MM PORT guys and gals .
Tried with grind stones , yawn , too slow and messy .
I got my self centring cone cutter which has 2MM steps in it from 5MM to 35 MM.
Ground off the cutter after 21MM so i couldn't go nuts and go to 23MM.
I then tried grind stones again , still too slow .
Raided my woodcutter set and went at it with the small router as a nibbler , and it did a great job .
Finally hit it ( bum getting a bit tight about now ) with the 22MM dome router and hey presto .DONE!
This was all done freehand with my 18 volt battery drill , again to stop me from blowing out the casting or whatever .
The router set has come through for me and it still has an edge on the tool.tungsten tips .
Work now stalled as i have ordered some nickel sulphate off EBAY for less than a tenner and will attempt to plate the heat shields .
Again go on youtube or instructables and watch a few tutorials , you'll get what i'm up to .
Thats all for now , i'm tired and smell a bit oily apparently , and TOP GEAR is on at 8 o'clock.

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[steve matthews]

Rob, now that all the guts are out round off or angle all internal edges.
Especially that one coming out of the wastegate to the down pipe.
You will see and feel them as you look. This goes for the manifold also.

Doing this will smooth out the air flow causing less turbulence.
Less turbulence means faster evacuation = ability to get more power.

If you don't understand just bring the parts to a good speed shop and they will show
you where to grind and smooth.

Steve

[rob/d]

Thanks Steve.
I will be flowing everything on Monday and then putting things back together.

By the way 22mm is the biggest the port can be taken to . It leaves about a millimetre of overlap .

[rob/d]

Update on the nickel plating ...
ARGHHH
What a waste of time !!!
The heat shields are a weird steel with a pewter type finish that never seems shiney for more than a few hours .
So i got my baggy of nickel sulphate today , made a nice hot bath of solution . set up the power supply and agitator pump.cleaned the shields with thinners , acid bath and de ionised water and the fun began .
And stopped .
hour later and i got nasty looking shields with a black oxidised look about em .polishing them gets you back to that pewter type finish really quick .
bare steel keeps a yellowish nickel type finish.
ANY scratch or scuff stays black as you can't get to it . any pewter type finish not quite right peels off with your thumb nail .
Bottom line , pay a man with a factory to chrome them or something .
Back to the drawing board .

[dapinky]

Rob,

I feel your pain.....i tried it a few years ago.

Basically, the heat shields are a multi-layer composite and dont like to be pickled in anything.

Best thing I have found is to dip them in Phosphoric Acid to remove (convert) the rust and then paint them with UHT paint (in an Aluminium colour / Aluminum color ) - any other type of Acid will get into the layer system and may cause seperation.

[epipete]

Rob,

I feel your pain.....i tried it a few years ago.

Basically, the heat shields are a multi-layer composite and dont like to be pickled in anything.

Best thing I have found is to dip them in Phosphoric Acid to remove (convert) the rust and then paint them with UHT paint (in an Aluminium colour / Aluminum color ) - any other type of Acid will get into the layer system and may cause seperation.

it's what I did!

[rob/d]

Cheers guys,worth a try.
Next idea is to go and get a buffing wheel and get to it .
I can also get VHT clear coat paint so another long weekend this week will see the whole thing back together .

[Enright]

I had reasonable success with a buffing wheel, but you need to keep on top of it afterwards to keep it spotless.
Apparently it's a bad idea to try to run without any heat-shields at all - the previous owner of mine reported issues of scorched bonnets on the forum in the past.