Ignition Switch failure

[superbad]

I'm in a parking lot, car won't start. Key doesn't feel right when you turn it- there's no detent to the start position. If you take the key out, the ignition remains on (dash lights on, rad fans on, etc.) I recently replaced the actual ignition switch (the black plastic bit at the end of the lock cylinder). The only tool I have on hand allowed my to take the steering cowling off, and that all looks fine and feels tightly connected still. Is this the lock cylinder itself that has crapped out, or the connection between the cylinder and the switch?

[superbad]

When I say there is no detent, there is the normal detent leaving the off position, then the key spins freely all the way to position three. But none of those positions has any effect on the state of the ignition, it acts as if the key were at position 2.

Any way to get this home without a tow? Push start might work, apart from the ignominy.

[superbad]

ign switch.JPG

It was indeed the ignition switch- the keyway on my two week old switch cammed out, so turning the key had no effect. Disappointing. Pulled it out and used a screwdriver to turn it. Interestingly, my radio didn't work after starting it this way. OT, I need to put together a good tool kit to keep in the car.

[superbad]

Now that it's daylight, I can see it was actually the drive pin on the end of the lock cylinder that sheared off. Then the broken end tore up the end ignition switch a little bit. Let down by a different GM part bin part!

[Enright]

Thanks for posting your discoveries of the reasons behind the fault - I'm sure quite a few of us (including me) found them very interesting.
Have you repaired the unit pictured, or simply replaced it again?

[superbad]

Ordered a replacement lock cylinder and ignition switch. For reference to anyone who ends up here on a search: in the US, both these components were used on the Pontiac Lemans (early 90s, manufactured by Daewoo). The lock cylinder with keys is about $12 on Rock Auto, and the ignition switch is as low as $5.

Also, to remove the ignition switch, a right angle ratcheting bit wrench (http://toolmonger.com/2009/02/23/crafts ... -wrenches/) with a small slotted bit will save you much frustration. There is not enough room to get a screwdriver into that space, even a little jeweler's screwdriver.

[nsr250]

Explain this to me. I looked on Rockauto and found the lock cylinder w/ keys for $11.26. What is it that you're buying for $5? I'm confused.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

[quote="superbadThe lock cylinder with keys is about $12 on Rock Auto, and the ignition switch is as low as $5.[/quote]

On Rock Auto:

Electrical-Switch & Relay : Starter Switch
KEMPARTS Part # UL1515: Ignition Switch [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 1 Remaining)....... $5.24

Ignition : Ignition Lock Cylinder
ACDELCO Part # D1430B: CYLINDER,IGN LK W/KEY [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 7 Remaining)....... $11.26

[superbad]

Exactly, it's two separate parts. The lock cylinder slides out of the steering column. Turning the key does two things: it unlocks the steering column, and rotates a little shaft at the end of the lock barrel. That shaft turns a plastic ignition switch that contains the electrical contacts that turn on the car and start the engine. My ignition switch failed a few months ago (symptom: radio stops working). A couple weeks after replacing it, my lock cylinder failed: the little shaft sheared off, so turning the key was not turning the ignition switch.

[superbad]

Good news / bad news. Good news: everything in that Rock Auto listing works (the $5 KEM switch is the exact same switch I bought from SJS). The bad news, this is the key you get:

pontiac.JPG

[Fredjohn]

Ouch not nice: But if you can get the correct blank key, you can get one cut from the Pontiac key.