Brakes sorted - almost!

[Fredjohn]

Finally found some time and inspiration to look at my rear brakes.

Despite having fitted Wilwoods to the front, the overall braking experience was effective but not inspiring. In addition, the handbrake needed about 8-9 clicks (maximum travel) to come on.

I stripped down the rear offside (what other car requires the calliper to be removed to change the pads??) and following advice from Dave P I adjusted the calliper lever/piston. Before re-assembling I decided, as it was only one nut and a split pin and loads of grease, to fit my new (Jeemy) hub and disc combination. Easy peasy: excellent fit and very straightforward.

Then I re-assembled it and did the same on the nearside. The calliper lever movement was virtually the same as the adjusted offside, so I left it alone and just fitted the new hub/disc. Wheels all back on and torqued up then off for a quick round the block test drive.

What a difference . The brakes now feel firm and confidence inspiring, even though the discs need bedding in. I hit the brakes at 50-60mph with my hands off the wheel: it pulled up rapidly and dead straight with only a slight wobble because of the road surface. Brilliant!! And the handbrake only needs 2 clicks and Superman to put it on! To be fair there is a slight drag of the pads on the discs and the calliper lever is about 7mm off the stop on both sides. This will mean a quick visit to the other end to adjust the cables under the centre console. This is awkward but will do that tomorrow.

A little tip for replacing the cable on to the calliper lever, if it is too hard to put on by hand. Put a jack and piece of wood under the lever and jack it up. The lever will move up until the pads are fully on and then the car will start to rise. Stop at this point and back off a little. Firmly attach mole grips to the bullet end of the cable and twist/pull into position on the lever. Release the jack and the lever should settle back onto the stop. If it doesn't, then adjust it at the handbrake lever end. Job done!

Took about 2.5 hours and that was after doing 2-3hrs of gardening in the morning. Very productive day I would say

Incidentally what size are the calliper bolts? I would have thought 17mm, but I couldn't get that on and 18mm was slightly too loose. Had to use 11/16th ring spanner to loosen them. Any ideas? If they are supposed to be 17mm, I'll get some new ones!

[dapinky]

what other car requires the calliper to be removed to change the pads??)

Vauxhall Vectra, Peugeot 206, errr.... probably some others, but those are 2 which spring to mind

Incidentally what size are the calliper bolts? I would have thought 17mm, but I couldn't get that on and 18mm was slightly too loose. Had to use 11/16th ring spanner to loosen them. Any ideas? If they are supposed to be 17mm, I'll get some new ones!

Not sure, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if it were 11/16 (but most will cope with 17mm), bearing in mind that the same calipers were used on the front end of many GM cars in the USA, where they still use proper sized spanners, not this new-fangled metric system.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Not sure, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if it were 11/16 (but most will cope with 17mm), bearing in mind that the same calipers were used on the front end of many GM cars in the USA, where they still use proper sized spanners, not this new-fangled metric system.

I believe Dave meant the REAR Brakes. Not too many front brakes have hand brake levers. The bolts could easily be 7/16" Imperial (5/8" or 11/16" wrench) and not metric. GM/Lotus used what was on the shelf. I will dig up a bolt and measure it.

The M100 used the same rear brake calipers as the Chevy Lumina around 1989-91 but different Hand Brake Levers and the same front brake calipers as the Pontiac LeMans GSE (with the vented discs) or you will need to swap the mounting portion to the non-vented caliper's hydraulic portion