Replacing PAS high pressure hose, advice welcomed

[robertverhey]

In the process of replacing the timing belt (a fun job that), I appear to have "worried" the already worn high pressure PAS hose (the one that attaches to top of PAS pump and runs back along the engine mount and down to rack) to the extent where the metal section of the pipe has split just near the pump union end. Had a go at a braze repair today but alas she's a goner. New hose needed.

Hoses are available from SJ and Lotusbits, so no problem replacing, albeit not cheap.

I have searched extensively in the Wiki and forum, and it appears that a degree of dismantling of the front O/S suspension is required to get access to the rack where the pipe unions attach. Makes it a really big job. Just wondering has anyone come up with a clever way to access the rack Union without dismantling suspension? Would dearly love to avoid that! Doesn't help that the pipe seems to have a weird size hex head.

Any advice welcomed.

Robert

[lotusflasherman]

In the process of replacing the timing belt (a fun job that), I appear to have "worried" the already worn high pressure PAS hose (the one that attaches to top of PAS pump and runs back along the engine mount and down to rack) to the extent where the metal section of the pipe has split just near the pump union end. Had a go at a braze repair today but alas she's a goner. New hose needed.

Hoses are available from SJ and Lotusbits, so no problem replacing, albeit not cheap.

I have searched extensively in the Wiki and forum, and it appears that a degree of dismantling of the front O/S suspension is required to get access to the rack where the pipe unions attach. Makes it a really big job. Just wondering has anyone come up with a clever way to access the rack Union without dismantling suspension? Would dearly love to avoid that! Doesn't help that the pipe seems to have a weird size hex head.

Any advice welcomed.

Robert

Try imperial AF.. 1/2" AF and 13mm, and 3/4"AF and 19mm are virtually the same but sizes in between are significantly different.
Japan & US continued with imperial AF sizes long after UK went to metric. (Ford put metric size heads on 'imperial threads' in the 70's for a transitional period !)
I know the rear caliper has some imperial on them -posted this on a thread about Rear Calipers -

Oh - just remembered something I forgot to comment on ... in getting the nut off I had to get my old sockets out. It was too big for 17mm & too slack for 18mm.
Measured with caliper at 17.4 mm so set it to 'old money' and it showed 0.68". Now 11/16 = 0.6875, so the 11/16" AF socket fitted nicely. Tricky Bar Stewards - you can't catch me out!
Seem to remember somebody having problems undoing a banjo.... so maybe wrong tool set being used?

You need two sets of tools when working on the M100 ... and arms with a universal joint in them

[robertverhey]

Just to round this off, managed to remove the union into rack with a 14mm flare nut spanner, and a bit of luck (flats were in the right spot, otherwise I'd still be out there swearing)

Once the pipe was off I decided it could be fixed, so cleaned it up and had it brazed by a local garage $20. Good as new, perhaps better!

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[Tuga2112]

Just wondering has anyone come up with a clever way to access the rack Union without dismantling suspension? Would dearly love to avoid that! Doesn't help that the pipe seems to have a weird size hex head.

Any advice welcomed.

Robert

remove clam shell ?
I replaced the PAS pump from the top when the clam shell was out.
as you said "the one that attaches to top of PAS pump and runs back along the engine mount " I can clearly envision the pipe in my head. without the clam shell you get easy access to a lot of stuff around the engine, if you intend to do extensive work it may be worth considering.

Its a easier job than it sounds. although time consuming, and putting everything back while being properly aligned is a challenge (which i did not succeeded at) but. if you fear touching the suspencion, its the only thing i can think of.