Leads, coils, plugs, starters, starting probs etc.
Moderators: theelanman, dapinky, Specky, clemo, Nige, Sy V, Dave Eds, DaveT, Elanlover, muley, Enright, algirdas, nitroman, GeoffSmith
by Mr Fixit » Tue 22.09.2015, 20:57
All
You may have noticed that I sold my M100 however the guy who bought it is having a starting problem and cant get logged on here so I'm trying to help him out.
It is a 1991 Se turbo and has had the alarm removed. the car drove away fine and all he has done is just changed the battery but she now will not start, I have asked him to check fueling and its getting to teh filter OK.
Any ideas if there is likely to be any 'residual' alarm items that prevent starting also let me know fits worth resetting the ECU (and how)
Thanks
Nick
C55 AMG Black
Lotus M100 red
-
Mr Fixit
- Tinkerer
-
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Thu 08.05.2014, 13:29
- Location: Coggeshall Near Colchester
by CalElan » Tue 22.09.2015, 22:07
Is it cranking over?
Did the fuel cut get triggered?
-

CalElan
- Fanatic
-
- Posts: 285
- Joined: Sun 14.12.2014, 01:26
- Location: Mountain View, CA, USA
by Brit-Car-Nut » Tue 22.09.2015, 23:02
I am assuming that the engine is cranking on the starter but not starting?
Please clarify that as I might be way off base.
The M100 SE has a Fuel Cut Off Device (Inertia Switch) in the battery box area (which is not an easy place to do any work).
It will trip and turn off the fuel pump if the car is in a collision. Due to the cramped location, he could have bumped the Inertia Switch and switched it off so he isn't getting any fuel.
Here is a picture:
Inertia.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Please contact me via eMail, not by PM
-
Brit-Car-Nut
- God
-
- Posts: 4820
- Joined: Tue 03.07.2007, 17:07
- Location: Charlotte, NC USA
by tb10 » Wed 23.09.2015, 00:04
I had a similar problem yesterday and I managed to flatten the battery by my persistance in cranking the car. However I wasn't sure if I heard the fuel pump priming when I had initially deactivated the immobiliser but when I put my booster pack on i heard the pump working. It started eventually but it was not good for a while but it started fine this morning when SWMBO went to work
Ask him if he can hear the fuel pump.
Also ask him if there is fuel in the tank!
regards
John
-
tb10
- God
-
- Posts: 845
- Joined: Tue 18.05.2010, 23:16
- Location: Bromsgrove - Worcestershire
by evert » Mon 30.05.2016, 10:38
I have tried to start my Elan (Turbo version) after two years stalling in my garage last weekend, no result. Replaced the battery, the engine is cranking and the spark plugs are firing (that means the CAS sensor is okay I guess?), no result.
Located the inertia switch, it was not activated. When attempting to start or switching ignition on I cannot hear the fuel pump, should it be?
I thought that after cranking (and when engine does not start) you normally hear it running for a few seconds?
Will check the alarm tonight (it also can break the line to the fuel pump), in case there is pollution in the fuel, how to solve?
I read about a wire to the engine management (a mass) that is more often found to be causing this (located at the inlet manifold?)?
The "engine failure" light in the dashboard remains on during cranking, is this normal?
Any suggestions are appreciated ;->
-

evert
- Newbie
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Tue 12.04.2005, 14:21
- Location: Netherlands
by lotusflasherman » Mon 30.05.2016, 11:17
evert wrote:I have tried to start my Elan (Turbo version) after two years stalling in my garage last weekend, no result. Replaced the battery, the engine is cranking and the spark plugs are firing (that means the CAS sensor is okay I guess?), no result.
Located the inertia switch, it was not activated. When attempting to start or switching ignition on I cannot hear the fuel pump, should it be?
I thought that after cranking (and when engine does not start) you normally hear it running for a few seconds?
Will check the alarm tonight (it also can break the line to the fuel pump), in case there is pollution in the fuel, how to solve?
I read about a wire to the engine management (a mass) that is more often found to be causing this (located at the inlet manifold?)?
The "engine failure" light in the dashboard remains on during cranking, is this normal?
Any suggestions are appreciated ;->
Fuel pump should whirr for about a second when you first switch on ignition as fuel pressure builds up. Sounds very likely that you have no fuel pressure, so that's the first thing to investigate.
Phil
Leave me alone, I think I know what I'm doing.
Cars: Subaru Forester 2.5XTN, Eclat Riviera, brace of Pacific Blue SE's, Collapso SE, Elan+2S.... and now an Evora
-

lotusflasherman
- God
-
- Posts: 2533
- Joined: Fri 05.09.2008, 00:14
- Location: Hadleigh, 15m west of Ipswich or I may be 800 miles south (Cap d'Agde)
by evert » Mon 30.05.2016, 15:38
Thanks, will try tonight. Any suggestions on the wiring? Can a bad ground wire, like from a sensor close to inlet manifold, cause the ECU not to turn on the fuel pump?
By the way, the lower screw from the CAS cover fell and I cannot find it back!!! Any suggestion where to look? It was not on the ground, looked already >30 minutes for it ;-<
-

evert
- Newbie
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Tue 12.04.2005, 14:21
- Location: Netherlands
by lotusflasherman » Mon 30.05.2016, 17:37
evert wrote:Thanks, will try tonight. Any suggestions on the wiring? Can a bad ground wire, like from a sensor close to inlet manifold, cause the ECU not to turn on the fuel pump?
By the way, the lower screw from the CAS cover fell and I cannot find it back!!! Any suggestion where to look? It was not on the ground, looked already >30 minutes for it ;-<
Fuel Pump wiring is here ...
sheet 5.JPG
The fuel pump relay is in the rear speaker compartment on LHD cars, alongside the Inertai Switch. Might be an idea to check that first..
Your CAS screw is probably sitting on a reinforcing web of the clutch housing. I have a magnet on a long thin welding rod that I poke around with when steel bolts go missing. Lucky the housing is aluminium and doesn't grab the magnet ...

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Phil
Leave me alone, I think I know what I'm doing.
Cars: Subaru Forester 2.5XTN, Eclat Riviera, brace of Pacific Blue SE's, Collapso SE, Elan+2S.... and now an Evora
-

lotusflasherman
- God
-
- Posts: 2533
- Joined: Fri 05.09.2008, 00:14
- Location: Hadleigh, 15m west of Ipswich or I may be 800 miles south (Cap d'Agde)
by Candles » Mon 30.05.2016, 17:47
There are numerous little places in the gearbox housing that the CAS cover screw could have fallen into. You could dangle a magnet around there (as the gearbox and clutch housing is alloy) and see if it picks anything up. The screws are quite small as you know, but are steel.
AND they are 7/32" heads! What is going on - I thought the car was ALL metric! I want a refund

-

Candles
- God
-
- Posts: 1496
- Joined: Tue 22.04.2003, 09:58
- Location: Bristol, UK
by lotusflasherman » Mon 30.05.2016, 18:26
Candles wrote: AND they are 7/32" heads! What is going on - I thought the car was ALL metric! I want a refund

You've been thinking wrong then. The nut that holds the handbrake lever on the rear caliper is 11/16" A.F. It measures 17.4mm so 17mm too small & 18mm too slack.
forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=24698#p311281
Phil
Leave me alone, I think I know what I'm doing.
Cars: Subaru Forester 2.5XTN, Eclat Riviera, brace of Pacific Blue SE's, Collapso SE, Elan+2S.... and now an Evora
-

lotusflasherman
- God
-
- Posts: 2533
- Joined: Fri 05.09.2008, 00:14
- Location: Hadleigh, 15m west of Ipswich or I may be 800 miles south (Cap d'Agde)
by evert » Tue 31.05.2016, 11:17
Checked the relays and stuff yesterday, it seems 12V is coming right till the connector on top of the fuel tank for 2 seconds after switching ignition on, so that looks okay. I cannot hear a single noise or hum from the pump, so must be it I guess?
How can I remove the fuel lines (the red and white kind of "connector")? Do I need a special tool for that?
-

evert
- Newbie
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Tue 12.04.2005, 14:21
- Location: Netherlands
by Fredjohn » Tue 31.05.2016, 11:22
evert wrote:How can I remove the fuel lines (the red and white kind of "connector")? Do I need a special tool for that?
Take a look
at this threador alternatively
this oneIf the pump is faulty this may help in removing it
La vie passe vite: vivez la avec élan.
Elan SE turbo 1992
Emira 2023
Mercedes Benz C200 estate
Lotus Evija Danish edition
-

Fredjohn
- God
-
- Posts: 2537
- Joined: Tue 21.08.2012, 00:30
- Location: Malvern, Worcs
by HJ2 » Tue 31.05.2016, 11:25
Hoi Evert,
Long time no see!

Ik had niet gedacht je nog on-line aan te treffen, je hebt de Elan dus nog steeds niet verkocht

There is a tool to unclip the fuel lines (Brit Car Nut has several for sale) But before I had that, 2 small screwdrivers sufficed to undo the clips.
Take care not to damage the plastic fuel lines. There are several topics about testing and replacing the pump and there's one with changing the float that has decent pictures too.
Good luck!
edit: John beat me to it whilst typing!
If you always do what you always did, you always get what you always got
-

HJ2
- Wodan - God of the Low Lands
-
- Posts: 4405
- Joined: Fri 06.06.2008, 10:54
- Location: Delft, the Netherlands
by evert » Tue 31.05.2016, 12:43
Hi HJ,
decided to keep the car that time, but with 3 kids it was not used for some years!! Now I get some time, so decided to bring it back to the road again ;->
Cannot find the link to the fuel pump repair place with pictures...
-

evert
- Newbie
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Tue 12.04.2005, 14:21
- Location: Netherlands
by HJ2 » Tue 31.05.2016, 12:57
Good for you and good luck with firing it up!
Kind regards
Henk-Jan
If you always do what you always did, you always get what you always got
-

HJ2
- Wodan - God of the Low Lands
-
- Posts: 4405
- Joined: Fri 06.06.2008, 10:54
- Location: Delft, the Netherlands
by evert » Mon 27.06.2016, 10:13
Engine is running now! It was the fuel pump and the injectors were polluted.
Does anybody suffer from those speed-ramps ;-< ?? I touch the ground with the nose section very rapidly at those ramps, could it be that my front springs are weak?
-

evert
- Newbie
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Tue 12.04.2005, 14:21
- Location: Netherlands
by HJ2 » Mon 27.06.2016, 11:42
Hi Evert,
It is possible, yes. To be sure: have the shock's tested at a local 'bandenboer'
Also: never brake when driving almost on the up-ramp at the speedbumps! I have a spare front rubber lip if you need one

Try to drive over them diagonally helps as well.
Good that the car is running again.
If you always do what you always did, you always get what you always got
-

HJ2
- Wodan - God of the Low Lands
-
- Posts: 4405
- Joined: Fri 06.06.2008, 10:54
- Location: Delft, the Netherlands
Return to Ignition and fuelling
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests