Small (or maybe not) project. 91 elan

[dapinky]

Tim, - they are the ones i used and they fit both inner and outer joints.

[mitreklov]

Good to know they replace the inner ones too, I've been lucky so far and not had to touch them.

Thanks for the heads up Dave.

Tim

[Tuga2112]

Dave, Tim and BritCarNut (sorry dont know your name)

a big thanks for all the information. I was already counting the pennies thinking about a 50+ quid bill plus the many hours of work.
I have ordered 2 of the boots Tim posted, (think i only need one, but compared to the expected cost Ill stay safe with a second one.
I have finally moved house. at this moment the elan is garage-less, i also renewed the insurance for another 300 quid and car tax is coming this same month. so you can imagine topping all these expences to paying a rent on old house and mortgage on new one... I dropped off the custom rear hubs group buy because it seemed like the right thing to do financially

my new driveway is covered in gravel, which is just not suitable for jacking up the car. so the work will have to wait until i get some stone slabs in there (already got a budget DIY plan, but suggestions are welcome)

I will update the post and likely annoy Dave with PM when i'm finally ready to tackle the job in the meanwhile Ill be happy to abuse the project thread to discuss "how to build concrete slabs out of cement + gravel that i have in the driveway

edit.
no one was impressed with the alloy paint work

[epipete]

no one was impressed with the alloy paint work

Sorry Joao, didn't realise you were fishing for complements

Your wheels look very nice . Actually, they really do!

[Tuga2112]

Sorry Joao, didn't realise you were fishing for complements

In this thread, if i'm not asking for help, i'm fishing for complements ... specially after spending 2 weeks on a job that should have taken 1 or maybe 2 days. sanding down the wheels was a pain... until i gave up and bought a sand blaster... and finally learned how to use it. mine was always clogged because i assembled it incorrectly and assumed sand wouldn't need to be filtered.

[dapinky]

Now that you've got a (working) sandblaster, I'm pretty sure that you'll find lots of things to use it on (Things that spring to mind easily are:- Brake callipers, suspension components, light/engine brackets) In fact, virtually anything that you would have spent hours sanding by hand, or with a wire brush, suddenly get very easy to clean up in a few minutes.

I find that ground glass is the most used media, as it is single-use and turns to dust as it gets used so there is no having to collect a layer of aluminium oxide particles from the floor/workbench afterwards. It won't do for the really grotty bits as it isn't abrasive enough, but for most things it's fine.

Whatever you're using though, just make sure it doesn't get into bits that you don't want it in - like the engine!

[epipete]

Whatever you're using though, just make sure it doesn't get into bits that you don't want it in - like the engine!

Or your eyes

[Tuga2112]

Whatever you're using though, just make sure it doesn't get into bits that you don't want it in - like the engine!

Or your eyes

actually from the googling i done, it seems the most important thing is the lungs, silicosis seems to be the main consern between peopl that use sandblasters regularly.

when i use mine i always wear the dust mask i bought for when i was painting the car

[dapinky]

You're quite correct, of course! - I was sort-of assuming the H&S bits were taken as read!

Silicosis is a big issue, but with the ground glass that I tend to use it isn't a problem (but I still work with dust mask and goggles!).

[Tuga2112]

You're quite correct, of course! - I was sort-of assuming the H&S bits were taken as read!

the problem for me with "usual H&S" is that I dont know therefeore i am likely to miss it. although most things are play common sense there are some that u wouldnt have guessed.

particularly with the silicosis, i was always prepared because i have asma therefore i am extra careful. but i would probably miss it if i didnt pop up while researching the topic based on the simple consept that beaches all over the world are full of sand are no one ever considers the sand to be a danger.

[Tuga2112]

Finally got round to attempt the repair.

first of all thanks for the tips, from everyone, and specially the detailed descriptions from Dave,
sadly i didnt manage to get the job completely done. im stuck behind removing the hub from the hub assembly.

so, in short the steps taken.

removed wheel.
take out hub nut. (with the impact driver no issues)
taken out the brake caliper, didnt bother with removing the brake pads, and used a bungy cord to keep the caliper hanging so the brake line is safe.
take out the brake disc, this was surprisingly easy
loosen up the lower ball join and the ball joint that connects to the steering.

now. I cant get the hub out of the assembly, tried hammer and air hammer, without any luck,

so... help!!!

[dapinky]

Joao,

Once the hub nut is undone, the hub *should* just slide off the shaft - it isn't a really tight fit (which is why the nut has a high torque figure, to hold it all together).

I wouldn't twat it with a big hammer as that is likely to induce some shock into the actual bearing and cause potential damage (which will then need a new wheel bearing!).

A firm pressure on the shaft whilst pulling the hub should remove it - ideally a proper hub puller should be used (if it needs it), as they will apply a firm and even pressure, not a 'shock' so are unlikely to damage the actual bearing.

something like this.

[Tuga2112]

either the hub is somehow seized or i must be doing something wrong.





nedless to say the area around the hub has had a fair share of wd40.
I looked around before trying to use the puller for any screws, or bolts that needed undoing and nothing.

ill try to get some pictures of the hub as things stand tomorow. Im hopping im missing something before obvious.
any ideas ?

[tb10]

Hi Joao,

I think Dave's cars have been in bits so often his experience is so different to mine. Allow me to explain!! In my experience this will be the nightmare of all nightmares for you if you carry on trying to do this yourself. I say this as only this year was one of mine sent off to a specialist firm who deal with pressing after my mechanic had tried without success to separate them. The specialist company put the hub on their press and it separated after a day with one heck of a bang having 20 tonnes of pressure on it. Therefore this is something that a hammer, air or otherwise, won't do unless it has been apart very recently (aka Dave's hubs!!)

The alternative is trying to freeze the driveshaft AND heat the hub to shrink and expand each component but my money is on a new hub and driveshaft if you keep whacking it!

Good luck.

regards

John

[cliff]

Hi Joao,

not sure why you can't get the hub off, mine slid off with no effort.

2 points though, wd40 is perfumed mineral oil and must win the award for the best marketed, useless product on the planet and that includes Cameron, Obama and the Kardashians. Get a good penetrating fluid.

Secondly, a 9.99 puller can never be classed as heavy duty, they are usually made out of coloured cheese. I think you might need something a bit more up to the job. Not sure which side you are having problems with but you might be as well to remove the whole drive shaft and do it on the bench or take it to a friendly garage. One side will pull out easily, for the other, you have to remove the 2 bolts holding the jack shaft.

Good luck.

[cliff]

Similar thought but John got there more succinctly.

[cliff]

By the way Mods, given the amount of work done, think it is is time this thread was moved to Major Projects?

[tb10]

By the way Mods, given the amount of work done, think it is is time this thread was moved to Major Projects?

[Tuga2112]

Hi Joao,

not sure why you can't get the hub off, mine slid off with no effort.

2 points though, wd40 is perfumed mineral oil and must win the award for the best marketed, useless product on the planet and that includes Cameron, Obama and the Kardashians. Get a good penetrating fluid.

Secondly, a 9.99 puller can never be classed as heavy duty, they are usually made out of coloured cheese. I think you might need something a bit more up to the job. Not sure which side you are having problems with but you might be as well to remove the whole drive shaft and do it on the bench or take it to a friendly garage. One side will pull out easily, for the other, you have to remove the 2 bolts holding the jack shaft.

Good luck.

it was actually a 20 quid puller, im going to buy from eurocarparts one tomorow after work, something stronger.
not keen at all on the idea of taking the shaft out to try again. i was aiming to get the car back on the road by the end of the week.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

I am confused. Are you trying to remove the driveshaft to replace the CV boots or trying to remove the hub to replace the outer wheel bearing?

To remove the driveshaft, you need to push/press the shaft out of the hub after "pulling it" from the differential. That is why you had to disconnect the ball joint and track rod end (not just remove the nuts) which allows you to "pop" the driveshaft inner joint assembly out of the near side output drive gear or the center shaft on the off side.

The actual hub is held in place by extreme pressure in the wheel bearing that will require you to remove the entire hub carrier and use a 20-ton or greater press to press it out of the bearing.

Please explain what you are trying to accomplish since I don't know why the hub is even in discussion. Have you disconnected the driveshaft from the differential? Are you having trouble pushing the driveshaft out of the hub?

Post some pictures of the project with enough detail to see where you are hung up.