dapinky wrote:lotusflasherman wrote:Sounds like you can't trust the reconditioning companies then. I'd put my money on the fact a lot of companies doing reconditioning only replace the failed component and clean it up a bit to make it look nice...
Personally, I have always (where availlable) fitted a new unit over getting the old one reconned. At least you know that it should be good for a fair while afterwards.
I think the component issue isn't one of trying to deliberately decieve and make a few quid, so much as using stuff which would be fine in most applications where the altenator doesn't get as hot, but in an Elan they don't get much airflow around them. Unfortunately, in modern society, many electrical componenets (starters, altenators etc) are cheaper to replace complete than repair - when a new one can be got for a similar price to a 'good quality' rectifier pack it's a choice of fitting cheaper bits or not doing the repair.
It would be worthwhile to speak to a reconditioner with your concerns and ask about fitting 'uprated' (which are probably more like OE than the 'downrated' stuff they use as standard) parts - the labour will be the same and the unit will be better suited.
That's some of the problem with comparing prices on the internet - unless you speak to them you don't know what you're getting.
Back in the '80s there was a local 'expert' who made most of his money by fitting a new set of brushes and painting your old unit with a black aerosol and calling it 'reconditioned' - which, in fairness, I suppose it was - if it worked afterwards
When the bearings in the altenator on my Vectra started squeeling i looked at getting them replaced, but the quotes I got made me think twice - and I bought a complete new unit for about £10 more than the repair price (but they have the advantage of volume of sale to keep the prices down) - with the Elan it isn't so simple.
Basically, a good repair will likely be as good as a new unit - as long as the wire windings are in good nick.
Just a comment that applies to any car for other owners - if your alternator squeals just after you've started the car and then goes quiet it's probably the belt slipping on the pulley when the alternator is recharging the battery at full output to replace the energy just lost in starting. 60 amps at 14.5V is 870 watts so quite a load on the belt that will decrease as the battery gets recharged. V belts can get a glaze on the surface and cleaning that off with emery paper gives a bit more friction and V belts with 'teeth' on the inside are less prone to slip anyway. It may be the belt is a bit slack but over-tightening a belt will decrease bearing life.
On the topic of refurbs - Production Engineers and Reliability Analysts will go on about the 'bath tub curve' which is a graph that shows component populations have a high failure rate early in life, mainly due to unseen production or material defects, but failure rate then falls steeply (the end of the bath where the taps are) and then there is a long flat period of reliability (the flat bottom of the bath) until age or service related faults state occurring towards the end of serviceable life of the component and the graph shows a gentle upward increase (the far end of the bath). All this is summed up by the saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
If a voltage regulator pack fails on an alternator it needs changing (obviously) but changing other components that may be nicely on the flat bottom with a new one might be the wrong move, and cost more. You will only know for sure with hindsight. On the Lucas 17ACR alternator that was very common in the 70's the VR was the Achilles heel but on most Fords you could change it without removing the alternator - oh happy days..
Now some alternators don't have VR's and voltage regulation is done within the ECU. Hope that doesn't fail!
but at least it gave me something else to think about while in the chair, other than pain. Afterwards started Elan and drove a short distance to park for shopping with BCF light on and clock off. After shopping started Elan and drove home with light on and clock off and parked on my drive. Connected a CTEK charger to recharge battery while I had a cup of tea and read various pages of the Lotus Service Notes Electrical Sections. Could see no association between Digital Clock circuit and Battery Charge Fail light. Went out to car and lifted bonnet and with aid of a torch found the alternator and checked the belt was still there so started car to listen for any audible clues - but there were none because the Battery Charge Fail Light went off and the clock was back on... 
, well done ... not sure how you worked it out but I now agree, having printed out all the relevant sheets and attacked them with a highlighter pen.
- but the mirror might fall off the windscreen yet again! 
