After struggling with my turbo rebuild, and learning a LOT in the progress of it, I'd thought I share my experience here on LEC so others might benefit as well.
The usual disclaimer here: This is MY experience and the way I did it, but not necessarily the correct way of doing it (far from)
I will post the pictures first and update the topic start with my comments in the coming days so check back regularly. After filtering, I have 70 pictures left for here on LEC so please bear with me as it takes a lot of time to post & comment.
I hope you like the work so far!
Reason for rebuild:
I got this smell of burnt oil after and during each drive. When I came to a full stop, the smell in the cabin was killing. At first I Suspected an exhaust line leak somewhere, so I did everything to check and repair that (but that's another story) After the exhaust line was completely gas tight, I still got the smell!
Then the turbo was suspicious. There was no excessive free play in the bearings, either radial or axial. It was however the only location left where burnt oil smell could escape. Also I the car was suffering from lack of performance. Performance slowly degraded over time and could not achieve Elysium boost set-point any more. Not even stock perssure! Now who wants a slow Elan? (well I certainty do not!
) So I put the car up in the air and took a flashlight and a mirror, and finally, finally! found a tiny leak at the turbine side of the turbo. Bingo!
Now I knew I had to refurbish the turbo! So in short the problems I experienced were:
* Degrading power output
* Degrading maximum boost
* Increasing spool-up times
* Burnt oil smell when at full stop
* Sooty Exhaust tip
* No noticeable excessive free play in one or more bearings
Starting point:
I ordered my refurb kit on eBay, based on these IHI specs:
IHI VI77 9103 (Turbo Spec)
RHB5 29464A (Serial)
8943373502 (Part No)
8944731580 (OEM Part)
VE130073 (Re-Core)
VD130087 (Re-core alternative)
(something like this: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/IHI-RHB5-Repair- ... dZRGSmyeUA)
Then off course the first stop was the LEC WIKI, with the great write-up from Dave Pink (
Thanks a million man!)I'll try not to repeat here everything Dave stated...http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Turbo ... _IHI_Turbo
My plan was to take it off the car, disassemble, clean the separate parts (in a big ultrasonic cleaner), inspect for damage and replace where necessary, rebuild, reinstall, drive! and follow Dave's write up as much as possible.
The obvious:
* Mark the orientation of all components of the turbo, especially the compressor relative to the shaft! All main components are pre balanced, but the small parts like washers and nuts are not. You'll need a re-balance if you mess up!
* work clean! These are all precision parts. Dirt will ruin the end result or your entire turbo Better clean too much than too less.
* when you are ready for a test drive, fill the entire assembly with oil before you refit the top banjo bolt. give it time to soak in.
* Crank the engine for a minute without ignition so the oil pump has time to prime the entire turbo circuitry
* I would not use this stuff again to cover my downpipe
Nasty fibres!Here's a visual of what happened to me:
1
Here you can see the heat shield on the turbine side. As you can see there is black crud all over it, but especially at the lower left quadrant. This is where the leak was. The oil leaked past the shaft into the turbo housing.
2
This is what the compressor housing looked when it came off
3
At the inside of the compressor housing there is a lot of oily residue. This is however still sticky oil, it easily wipes off and comes (possibly) from the PCV oil seperator
4
Here you can see it a little better
5
This is how the shaft + turbine came out. Remember: It is shrinked in position, so it is a one piece assembly now. Don't try to take it apart!
6
Here you can clearly see the crude evidence of carbon residue built up around the turbine oil seal or piston ring
7
The Inconell turbine wheel itself looked perfect by the way
8
The shaft is a bit brown, but not blue. Blue means: too hot, so scrap!
9
This is how the compressor came off. Only very minor damage after 130.000 KM of abuse
10
You can see clearly where the compressor is balanced.
11
Here you can see the Turbo housing underneath the heat shield. Lot's of carbon residue built up. This is not good!
12
Here you can see it a little better
13
After a quick whipe the compressor side looked quite clean. Not new, but clean enough
14
More detail:
15
Let's get the housing for the seals out of the way...
16
I used allen keys, like dave, to wiggle it out
17
Almost there
18
Here you go! Note the red RTV used to seal off this part
19
Now we have a clear view on the thrust bearing or thrust plate underneath
20
Once undone you can pry out the thrust washer / oil seal assembly with your fingers
21
You can clearly see the piston ring-type seal here
22
This is the kit I ordered from eBay
23
Take great care not to twist or even break the piston seals whilst installing them in the assembly. Make sure you lubricate them for easy fitment. You can assemble the part with your fingers only! When you need tools or a press, you are doing it wrong and you will damage either the seal itself or the soft aluminium mating surface (on the compressor side)
24
more...
25
Here is the thrust bearing and you can see the small oil channels that provide the oil film between the flanges during operation
26
Removal of the thrust plate
27
Thrust bearing exposed
28
Now you can remove the shaft bearing (compressor side)
This bearing also works with an oil film, hence the pre determined gap or free play of the new bearings.
29
more...
30
Yep, It is only a little worn
31
Oil supply and drain. Remember, the oil drain is gravity feed, so make sure the drain pipe is not bend or twisted!
32
Inner circlips that hold the shaft bearings in place
33
I had to grind a little of my pliers till they would fit the tiny holes!
34
The shaft bearing on the turbine side slides out. Note all the black crud!
35
The turbine housing after it comes out of the ultrasonic cleaner
36
I gave it a little polish, because I can
37
Mr. Smiley comes out clean as well
38
A quick polish with Scotchbrite to remove surface roughness
39
Ready for reassembly!
40
I cleaned the black crud off. NOTE: the worn shiny edge or lip at the turbine side of the piston ring groove!
41
New shaft bearing here as well
42
Clean everything thorough with brake cleaner
43
Compressor seal pressed in position
44
Here's the other side
45
Another good clean
46
Good for assembly
47
Don't forget the RTV sealant, and make ABSOLUTELY sure there is no sealant in the bearing or the oil channes underneath! I RTV-ed only the outer edge of the assembly to make absolutely sure that the mating surface stays even and clean. We just need to make a seal on the edge here.
48
This looks worse than it is, and yes, the groove in the right upper quadrant is filled with RTV
49
Cleaned the excess of RTV off and position it correctly for the screws
50
I used liquid locking for these
51
Voila!
52
A smear of grease so the piston ring snaps in position when we place the shaft
52a
Now that the RTV seal cured, I lubed everything up with (lots! of) thin oil
53
Since the bearings need some free play, the oil is sucked into all the thin grooves and channels. Everything is well lubricated
54
Test fit of the shaft
55
Put the heat shield back (yes, it is clean!)
56
Test Fit Compressor wheel
57
Perfect fit!
58
Perfect fit as well!
59
More...
60
It's back on the exhaust manifold
61
Another surface to seal with RTV. We don't want that precious boost escaping in the wrong direction!
62
Wastegate back after a functional check
63
Oil drain pipe back with new seal
64
My modified Piper downpipe, still naked
65
Time to dress up
66
Ready for prom night
67
Let's get those manifold studs back in. NOTE: The turbo is loose in it's housing so I could fine-tune the rotational position! This was however totally unnecessary, but now I know I can get the turbo cartridge out in no time if I need to (and boy, do I need to...)
68
I love my Lotus protection cover
69
O2 sensor hook up and ready for a test drive!
70
One final close up before the first drive
(and their quality is really good, too!)
