Help with where this goes please...

[JusNoGood]

My heating is only blowing at my feet. I've read the threads and looked at the various diagrams and I've found the problem.

Jamming my head up next to the accelerator I found the vacuum pipes aren't connected to the dash heater controls. I cant see whether it plugs into...I need to go out in the car on Saturday so I really dont want to pull apart the dash. Could someone direct me or even better show me a picture of the rear of the heater controls so I can see where it plugs in please? The diagrams in the parts guide dont show it unfortunately.

This is the plug on the end of the vacuum I have dangling around the back of the dash

Screen Shot 2018-05-03 at 18.44.57.png

[esprit888]

IMGP3425.jpg

IIRC this plugs into the back of your ventilation switch (floor/defrost/vent etc) which has the corresponding number of vacuum ports on the back.

[JusNoGood]

Cool thanks for the second pic thats the puppy

[Saltire]

You can plug the vacuum plug back into the rear of the rotary heater control through the radio aperture - BTDTGTTS, most recently this afternoon. Clipping the heater control rod onto the back of the lower (temperature) rotary switch is, however, a whole different matter. Unless of course you have a spare nine-year-old around who doesn’t mind a little manual labour

[John_W]

... a spare nine-year-old around who doesn’t mind a little manual labour

Doesn’t exist, in my experience. Not even for money.

[esprit888]

This one is better

[JusNoGood]

Thanks.

I went in through the ash try in the end. Still took a good 40 mins to get in on though! but unfortunately doesn't work so I'll need to find a guide to diagnosing the problem after castle combe. For now I've lodged the appropriate valve closed so I have more air going through the windscreen vents

[Fredjohn]

You should hear a hiss as you rotate the distribution dial (with engine running).

If not, there is no vacuum feed to the dial. So the feed pipe has become disconnected either at the back of the engine from the inlet manifold or from one of the connections to the vacuum reservoir under the LHS (UK passenger) wheel arch liner. You will need to remove the liner to check, although it is just possible to gain access by only removing the top bolts and easing the liner away at the top right.

If a hiss is heard then an actuator has possibly become mechanically disconnected and is not therefore operating the flap. This has happened to me once or twice and is a real pain to re-connect.

There is a very good diagram in the WSM which shows all the pipes and layout for both the 4 and 6 position systems. Section PE page 14c for the 4 position and page 16 for the 6 position. Tried to copy picture in but failed miserably!

Good luck and CU at CC.

[John_W]

My vote is also for the pipe having come off the plenum. The rubber elbow perishes and splits. See this short thread: viewtopic.php?f=134&t=8119&p=316081

[JusNoGood]

Really appreciate all the advice. This is quite an incredible site. Not had this level of help from any other car club I've belonged to Very much looking forward to meeting some of you at Castle Combe

Turned out to be a school boy error I was turning the ignition on (not starting the engine). As the blower was going full pelt I thought the vacuum should be working too, but the controls weren't doing anything. I jammed a piece of metal in the valve to keep it closed (blasting the windscreen with air). Started her up and the piece of metal fell out ....went underneath to jam it back in and the valve was closed, so metal must have fallen out because the vacuum closed it more than I could jam it So all now working I dont think it's worked in quite a while. As I tried the different settings I got covered in bits. I think I need some freshener spray now too as it didnt smell of fresh air!

Spent the day replacing my very damp original foam underlay with closed foam. Really pleased to have done that. Outriggers are all treated so look like new. I did also spend some time trying to kill the door rattles. No rattles now from the passenger side but wasn't quite successful with the drivers door - seems to be rattling away just behind my right ear ...but after another go that will be another thread...

[JusNoGood]

My boost gauge was working fine. It now sits at 0.5 when idling...,and flys off the gauge when On boost, could that be connected to this in some way?

[dapinky]

The boost guage issue isn't likely to be connected - but being an Elan, I can't guarantee that!

I would start with wiggling the wires on the boost transducer (the small rubber-covered cylinder on the drivers' side inner wing) - if they don't make a good/clean contact it would give the result you describe.... that said - it is also vacuum operated, so it *may* have something to do with any other vacuum issue you have.

It would be an easy check to see if you have a vacuum leak somewhere..... with the engine running at idle, just pull the rubber hose off the rear of the intake plenum (at the rear/top - near to the throttle housing). If the engine note changes, then it suggests that the vacuum system is intact - however, if it stays the same, it suggests that the vacuum system is already compromised somewhere - then it is *simply* a case of finding to burst/loose/leaking pipe/connection!!!

Whilst you are stopping bits of leaf debris etc blowing through the heater system, it is a good time to look behind the passenger side wheelarch liner..... it will give you good access to the vacuum reservoir (a black plastic sphere with a few pipes attached) which is bolted up near the door frame....... also you can check that the foam sleeve which connects the ventilation inlet pipe to the clamshell (and then into the car) hasn't perished - it's a commonish fault, and can be either replaced with a new part, or repaired with a piece of rubber innertube and 2 cable ties.

[JusNoGood]

Thanks very much Dave, I’ll give it a go

Thinking about it it could quite possibly be a connection as I was twisting the dash to try straighten it up a little - I failed but perhaps succeeded it listening the connection to that

[lotusflasherman]

My boost gauge was working fine. It now sits at 0.5 when idling...,and flys off the gauge when On boost, could that be connected to this in some way?

Have a look at this thread ...first and dead easy thing to check.

Boost Gauge off scale

[JusNoGood]

Tried the ground and that’s already nice and tight, as well as being a new connection. Next the back of the gauge. Might drill small holes in the top as they do mist up...