Still Not Handling Right...

[Dom]

The manual crashes before section HC!

[dapinky]

Dom,

replacing the UJ is straightforward as long as you arn't suffering from a slipped disc or arthritis (I am, and can still do it, with a bit of disscomfort!).

I did a quick write-up hereon the way I did it - not everything that you think has to be removed as the top bolts for the steering column are on slotted holes which allow sufficient movement to do the job without total removal.

[Simon_P]

That sounds like a good possibility.

You probably know that toe in provides straight line stability.
But the m100 has toe out
On front wheel drive cars applying diving force through the wheels pulls the toe-in, accelerating hard pulls it in some more.

You are usually driving the wheels so the setting of toe out is counterd.

Ease off and it is not countered, lift off and you have a breaking effect which will cause more toe-out.

So accelerating is more directionality stable and decelerating less directionally stable., which you will notice matches the symptoms.

So if you add to that the play it will be off wherever the road surface takes it.

If after you have fixed the play you still find it light adjust the toe to the 0 setting ie the least toe out end of the tolerance.

[Bern]

Dave's write-up is better (you can't beat the notes of somebody that has actually done it), but here is a later version of the manual. Both work for me!

[Dom]

Thank you, chaps, for your input. The part may arrive tomorrow, so guess what I’ll be doing if it does!

[dapinky]

one thing not mentioned yet - depending on the particular part that you get (there are numerous versions of the same basic thing - all work exactly the same way) - make sure that you keep the right bolts in the right holes through the UJ - some may have smaller heads to clear bigger metal chunks (does that make sense?) - and you may have a mixture of imperial and metric spanner sizes, although they will be 1/2" or 9/16" so will equate to 13mm or 14mm - just use something that fits!

[Dom]

one thing not mentioned yet - depending on the particular part that you get (there are numerous versions of the same basic thing - all work exactly the same way) - make sure that you keep the right bolts in the right holes through the UJ - some may have smaller heads to clear bigger metal chunks (does that make sense?) - and you may have a mixture of imperial and metric spanner sizes, although they will be 1/2" or 9/16" so will equate to 13mm or 14mm - just use something that fits!

Thank for the advice. It’s little things like this that can make all the difference.

[par]

If the fixings for the drivers are not totally seized it is worth considering removing the drivers seat to improve the access.

Doesn't turn it into an easy job but makes it slightly less awkward!

[Dom]

Ok, I gave it a go and failed. The problem is undoing the UJ bolts as the whole bolt turns and it’s hard to get a spanner on the back. Also, the UJ has a hard plastic shroud that gets in the way a lot! If I have another go, I’ll remove the seat, as suggested, to gain better access. Replacing the lower UJ is one of those jobs that’s easy in principle but, due to access issues, a pig in reality!

[Bern]

Arse Biscuits!! I ordered a UJ earlier thinking that changing it might make a difference, and if it doesn't then at least I can rule it out!

And I don't have a slipped disc either (though I do have the arthritis).

I remember now that just inspecting it was difficult enough. I also remember that changing it on the Defender wasn't that much of a problem, but then it was in a much better location!

Have you tried getting 2 sockets on it? I've got a couple of 1/4" drive ratchets that are great for getting into small spaces.

[Dom]

I’ll have another go as Lakeside are super booked up at the moment. It’ll have to be Monday now. The hard plastic surround is the main issue. If it wasn’t around the UJ the access would be much better.

[dapinky]

Guys,
this is why it's important to undo the bolts (to finger tight) before removing anything.... it is possible to have the UJ in a decent orientation to put a spanner on each end of the bolts (or at least, on one end - with a socket on the one pointing into the car) - then turn the steering to get to the other one.....

I know I am over simplifying it - and it's a tricky procedure - but there is a 'sweet spot' where you can get to everything you need to, before moving on to the other bolt...... you just need to find it.

If you persevere, you will find that fitting the new one is a whole lot easier as it slides over the splines better than the fitted 'crimped' one.

Good luck

[Dom]

Thank you for that. I hate it when I can’t complete a job as I feel an utter failure! I’ll definitely try again. I understand the alignment of the UJ is important. According to the manual, it can only fit one way onto the rack, so I presume it’s the other end that’s critical.

[Dom]

Right, I got the old UJ off. Now I can’t get the new one to seat onto the spline coming out of the rack. Any tips?

[dapinky]

Is it too tight? If so, opening out the split with a chisel (or any other wedge) may make it easier to slip down the splines. A light oil may also help. I can't recall any great difficulty when I did mine. As long as it is 100% square to the splines, it should drop on (with only slight resistance) - it can't fall off again due to the clamp bolts and position of the column.

[lotusflasherman]

Right, I got the old UJ off. Now I can’t get the new one to seat onto the spline coming out of the rack. Any tips?

Presume you've removed the bolt ... use an old screwdriver bit as a wedge to open up the pinch slot might help.

(Pinky types faster than me...)

[Dom]

Thank you. I’ll give that a go tomorrow in daylight! Yes, the bolts are out. However.... my alignment mark rubbed off. How can I be sure I’ve got that right?

[lotusflasherman]

Thank you. I’ll give that a go tomorrow in daylight! Yes, the bolts are out. However.... my alignment mark rubbed off. How can I be sure I’ve got that right?

Make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead and fit column with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position.

[ElanBRG]

Morning, All.

I recently replaced the front shocks and springs, which has firmed things up a little. However, when I lift off after accelerating hard the car feels very floaty and unstable, even before I’ve touched the brakes. I wondered if anyone had any thoughts on this. I feel I can’t use the car fully as the stability I’m told is inherent in the design of the car is not present.

Kind regards,

Dom

How old are the rear shocks? The PO of my car had just had the front shocks replaced, but the car rode like you described. When I bounced the rear of the car by hand, it was clear the rear shocks were bad. Not sure why the guy put new shocks on the front and left on 26 year old rear shocks. That doesn't make any sense. Always best to change all the shocks after that much time. And in my experience with many cars, the rear shocks seem more important on how the car feels than the front shocks.

[dapinky]

Thank you. I’ll give that a go tomorrow in daylight! Yes, the bolts are out. However.... my alignment mark rubbed off. How can I be sure I’ve got that right?

Make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead and fit column with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position.

As you look at the spline on the rack, you will see that there is a 'flat' bit where it is now a 'D' shape instead of a circle - it may or may not extend for the full length of the protruding shaft (I can't remember!) - either way, this is the part which the pinch boltsits in as it goes through the UJ - if the spline is wildly out on the UJ then the bolt won't go through - but if it is only 1 tooth out, it will....

.... as such, the whole system will still work if it's one tooth out, but your steering wheel won't be centered and you'll find it really annoying to look at as you drive (until you remove and refit it!).