Still Not Handling Right...

[Dom]

Thank you. I’ll give that a go tomorrow in daylight! Yes, the bolts are out. However.... my alignment mark rubbed off. How can I be sure I’ve got that right?

Make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead and fit column with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position.

As you look at the spline on the rack, you will see that there is a 'flat' bit where it is now a 'D' shape instead of a circle - it may or may not extend for the full length of the protruding shaft (I can't remember!) - either way, this is the part which the pinch boltsits in as it goes through the UJ - if the spline is wildly out on the UJ then the bolt won't go through - but if it is only 1 tooth out, it will....

.... as such, the whole system will still work if it's one tooth out, but your steering wheel won't be centered and you'll find it really annoying to look at as you drive (until you remove and refit it!).

Thank you. There’s no flat, but there is a channel machined out for the pinch bolt, so that gives me the alignment, at least onto the rack.

[Dom]

Everything is back together now. The steering wheel isn’t quite central. Grrr. Can I remove it, if it’s spined, and rotate it? I’m not sure I can face messsing with the UJ again just yet...

The car feels better, but there is still some play in the steering. Any ideas?

Thanks for all your help so far!

[Simon_P]

Is the play only in the straight ahead position?
Turn the wheel half a turn, if it goes away it is a worn rack. If it is still there, there is an adjustment.

[Dom]

Is the play only in the straight ahead position?
Turn the wheel half a turn, if it goes away it is a worn rack. If it is still there, there is an adjustment.

Thank you. I’ll give that a go when I get in from work.

What about the cheat method to centre the wheel, ie take it off and rotate it a spline or two?

[Bern]

The service manual says "the orientation of the 2 u/js in relation to each other is important, and affects the steering "feel" and smoothness of steering effort".

If you do have the alignment of them correct and it is your wheel that's at fault then I'd say move it on the splines. However if the UJ alignment isn't correct I'd take it off and put it on correctly if I were you. You'll want to rule that out as being a problem?

[lotusflasherman]

Is the play only in the straight ahead position?
Turn the wheel half a turn, if it goes away it is a worn rack. If it is still there, there is an adjustment.

Thank you. I’ll give that a go when I get in from work.

What about the cheat method to centre the wheel, ie take it off and rotate it a spline or two?

Did you check it with the engine running? Power steering always has 'a tad' of play between the input shaft attached to the column and the output shaft due to the torsion beam twisting... it is not so noticeable when the system is under pressure with the engine running.

Look at this vid from about 4min 30s ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amTnNkAhWgQ

Moving the steering wheel on the column will work but it will change when the indicators self-cancel.

[Dom]

Is the play only in the straight ahead position?
Turn the wheel half a turn, if it goes away it is a worn rack. If it is still there, there is an adjustment.

I checked with the engine running. There is play straight ahead and with the wheel half turned. What’s the adjustment, please?

[Dom]

Bern, I think you adjusted play out of your rack a while back. What’s the technique?

[Bern]

It's quite difficult to get to, but I found a good way to do it!

I use a 10mm and 17mm rachet spanner, and a hex bit (sorry can't remember what size, 7 or 8 I think).

The adjuster is where the column enters the rack.

First take off the drivers side wheel.

Then open the lock nut using the 17mm spanner, leave it on the nut.

Then I tape the hex bit inside the 10mm spanner, just some tape on the end to stop it sliding through - you still want the ratchet to work.

Get the hex bit into the end of the adjuster (with it on the end of the spanner).

Tighten a bit then do up the the lock nut with the 17mm spanner whilst holding the 10mm spanner.

Or the adjuster may move with the locknut when you tighten, you can use that to your advantage!

There's very little room in there, but that's the best way I found to do it.

Don't overtighten, I read somewhere that once it's done up, it may not come back.

And it's worth driving it between tigthening attempts, to make sure it still self-centres.

Hopefully that will make sense when you are actually looking at it. I found that way much easier then trying to do it from underneath.

Best if luck!

[Dom]

Thanks, Bern.

It was easy enough. I used a 5mm Allen key and a 17mm spanner. I slackened off the locknut, but the bolt it surrounds came with it. To generate adjustment, I simply stopped the bolt from turning with the Allen key and wound the locknut out a little. Then I used the spanner to tighten it all up as it moved as one unit. Initially I overdid it and the steering felt stiff and did not centre, so I slackened it off a bit and it now works as it should. However, there is still some play in the steering, despite a new lower UJ and adjusting the rack. I might try tightening up the Allen key bolt a fraction more. I suppose there are plenty of other things that can create play and, as pointed out above, some play is inherent in the system. At least when I turn the wheel a very small amount I can see the movement translated to the wheels.

Now to really drive the thing and see how it feels!

[Bern]

Hi Dom,

Then I used the spanner to tighten it all up as it moved as one unit. Initially I overdid it and the steering felt stiff and did not centre, so I slackened it off a bit and it now works as it should.

Yes , I found the same thing, that's what I tried to say with "Or the adjuster may move with the locknut when you tighten, you can use that to your advantage!". Luckily (and obviously) I don't write technical/instruction manuals!

I hope that has fixed it for you, let us know how it goes!

[Dom]

I think I'll tweak it by a 1/4 turn tomorrow. The car feels much better, but I haven't fully road tested it yet... Interestingly, the brakes feel better, too. I think this is because the car is more stable. Amazing the difference a £12 part can make. Plus, I've learnt a lot!

[Dom]

Morning, All.

Great news! I tweaked the steering rack adjustment by a fraction and ensured the lower UJ was nice and tight and the car feels excellent. I’m bowled over by how an inexpensive part and a bit of my time has transformed the car. However, I would not have been able to do any of this without the kind assistance of LEC members. Thank you! Jim and Bern deserve particular mention.

All the best,

Dom

[Bern]

That's very good news, and gives me hope that I can get mine sorted!

The UJ I ordered has arrived, I spent a bit more to get an OEM part, I was a bit worried that I may end up with a Britpart item (though not all Britpart are bad)! However, even this one has arrived in a blue box!

Hopefully I'll get a chance to fit it next week.....

[Dom]

That's very good news, and gives me hope that I can get mine sorted!

The UJ I ordered has arrived, I spent a bit more to get an OEM part, I was a bit worried that I may end up with a Britpart item (though not all Britpart are bad)! However, even this one has arrived in a blue box!

Hopefully I'll get a chance to fit it next week.....

It’s a fiddly job, but not too bad. Please let us know how you get on and if it makes a difference. I’m sure it will! My old UJ was very worn in the upper part, ie where it mounts to the bottom of the collar. It practically fell off once I loosened the bolt!

[Bern]

Well, I changed the UJ today - but the old one seemed fine and it's not really made any difference.

I've run out of ideas, can anyone suggest anything? Or maybe it's just me!

[Bern]

Time for an update I feel!!

The caster angle was at it's maximum on one side, so I thought I'd see what happened if I took both sides back by 2 shims. It made it feel much better, so I tried another shim on both sides, drove it again, another shim etc. I've now moved 5 shims and it feels pretty good, it's made a huge difference!

I've only got one shim left to adjust on the drivers side and 3 on the passenger side. So I'm going to check the caster on both sides to see how different they are and adjust as necessary.

And then just the brake imbalance to sort out. I've cleaned and fitted an new piston and seals to the side that was sticking, and I'll now do the other side and hopefully that'll be sorted!

It still doesn't feel 100% right, but I think I'm really close to having a decent car - makes me wish I were going to the Lotus festival now!