So....how did the M.O.T go? (or overseas equivalent)

[Fredjohn]

Simon, it's an SE: they never had cats fitted.

Us SE owners fiddle with the pot adjuster below the dash or fit a closed loop system which appears to half the emissions figures.

[RonR]

Also the MOT testing limits are different for the SE and S2 cars.
My tester told me that the regulations changed in late '92, and although mine was good for an SE, it wouldn't have passed emissions testing as an S2.

[Fredjohn]

Pete,

Simple job, remove wheel (car in the air!)

A witch on a broom would be ideal to do this

[epipete]

Thanks for the advice guys, I really don't need a spare witch afterall, one is plenty enough

[Saltire]

Pete, if you need yours MoTd when you come back, i now have a tame tester in Malmesbury who is very sympathetic to classic cars

[simonbuk]

PNM did a good thing developing their rear brake upgrade. Had to purchase one of these and a good struggle to get through the emissions. Nothing else noted though.

[Fredjohn]

Oh dear failed today.....on rear brakes

Fronts were ok, as was handbrake, but fail was on left to right balance at rear.

I have PNM/Hi-spec upgrade, aka Golf Mk4 calipers.

Readings kgf:

Handbrake L 155 R 156 (Wow so close!!)

Foot L 148 R 101

I have checked the pads and disc both good and new, lots of wear left and the pads are free to move and not stuck in the caliper. Sliders are also free and OK.
No leaks and piston is moving OK in and out as handbrake is good.

Baffled as to the cause, but am thinking along a blockage/restriction in the brake pipe or a blockage/problem with the compensation valve.

Intend to remove and clean the valve and check pipes between valve and caliper and then forwards if no apparent problem. Will pressure bleed that corner too with a load of fluid. I have 10 working days to get it back in under the free re-test rules.

Other than that any ideas anyone?

[Steve A]

Most likely the relief valves giving you the problem, mine deteriorated year by year until my MOT man said enough is enough.
I then binned the relieve vales and replaced them with adjustable's ( after reading Mr Pink's post ), I have also written and posted pictures .
It's on this page:
http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&t=18679&start=20

[muley]

Most likely the relief valves giving you the problem, mine deteriorated year by year until my MOT man said enough is enough.
I then binned the relieve vales and replaced them with adjustable's ( after reading Mr Pink's post ), I have also written and posted pictures .
It's on this page:
httphttp://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&t=18679&start=20

I will definitely go this route before my next MOT, otherwise mine will fail.

(my MOT tester says to take the valves out altogether but that's a bit drastic)


Jim

[Fredjohn]

Thanks Steve and Jim for confirmation of my suspicions, although a simpler cheaper diagnosis would have been appreciated!!!

Steve can you edit your post to remove one too many http in the link you quoted? Thanks

[Steve A]

Thanks Steve and Jim for confirmation of my suspicions, although a simpler cheaper diagnosis would have been appreciated!!!

Steve can you edit your post to remove one too many http in the link you quoted? Thanks

I've changed it but here's a link to Dave's original post (and yes since I took my photo's I have addressed the rust)

http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=23606

[Fredjohn]

Thanks Steve. Read the post and McGill still sell them. Will clean the offending valve before trying to buy and fit adjustable ones.

Dave P expect a call, free full board and use of my lift for 2 days if I need to fit adjustables!!!!!!!!!!!!

[dapinky]

Thanks Steve. Read the post and McGill still sell them. Will clean the offending valve before trying to buy and fit adjustable ones.

Dave P expect a call, free full board and use of my lift for 2 days if I need to fit adjustables!!!!!!!!!!!!

John,
There is no 'black magic' involved in fitting them - the only thing I would say is "Have you got a brake pipe flaring tool and a bit of pipe?" - the aluminium block is shorter than the OE prop valves, so the small length of copper pipe between the new valve and the flexi hose needs to be about 25mm longer.

If you haven't got one (or can easily get 2 pipes made up locally) I can make up a couple and post them to you.

The main pipe along the car is retained and fits to the new valve, but because the OE pipes are a bit rigid, they can't easily be repositioned to fit - nice new ones in copper (or whatever alloy of metal we all call copper when it comes to brake pipes) are easily flexible to fit.

A cheapo tool can be bought for under a tenner and you can reuse the old threaded ends if you don't want to buy new metric ones..... no idea on the price of pipe these days as I have had plenty in stock for years!!!!

[Fredjohn]

Thanks for that Dave. Presume the actual threads on old pipes new valve are the same.
When I installed the new rear calipers I fitted new flexible hoses, but much longer and totally eliminated the short metal pipe. So the flexible hose should reach the new valve

[dapinky]

In that case, John, it should be 'plug & play' - the prop valves come in various thread configurations (Imperial and metric), but the ones I used and linked to have the metric M10 thread as per 'standard' brake pipe fittings on most cars (including the Elan!).

I already had an imperial one in the garage, but thought it wise to keep it reversible and easy.

[Fredjohn]

That's good news Dave thanks. Only concern is the "play" bit!!!!!

Off to buy some brake fluid.

[dapinky]

Off to buy some brake fluid.

Halfords is still the best value I can find - 5L for £20 (DOT 4).... I'm down to my last 2 gallons of the stuff, so will need to restock soon.

[Fredjohn]

Well the car has now passed after stripping down one proportioning valve, cleaning it and then replacing/bleeding that corner. I didn't touch any other caliper/valve/MC at all.

But the fail and pass brake test results are baffling to say the least (it failed on the rear axle balance L to R):

Fail results:
Front L 283 HB L 155 Rear L 148
Front R 389 HB R 156 Rear R 101

Pass results
Front L 313 HB L 113 Rear L 75
Front R 303 HB R 156 Rear R 98

The really strange one is the hand brake. I didn't change or adjust it in any way, so how come the reading drops from 155 to 113? Similarly the front brakes were untouched.


Could it be that the pads weren't warm enough? Could the fluid be off and need totally replacing? Or is there some other aspect I have overlooked?

[GeoffSmith]

Passed.

[dapinky]

I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that the MOT is just another way for the government to screw me out of cash....

.... another year, another ticket - they don't even have the decency to fail it every few years just so I can feel like I'm getting my moneys worth for the test fee.

(At least I've also got a VW - I tend to get my moneys worth out of re-tests with that one )