RH pod not working

[Tuga2112]

Geoff,

Ive ordered this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Am-Tech-3pc- ... 2653024977
so i can check all solder joints .

i have now also made the relay click (using a 9v supply because from the print on the relay i undertood that to be correct) and confirmed the continuity of the fused +12v feeds to all the 4 outputs. (2 of them while the relay is closed and the other 2 while the relay is opened).

I was checking continuity of the ground wire. as from reading the wiring diagram i was under the impression this may have been a continous, although the multimeter did not beep while i was testing. i got an interesting pair of readings when the relay was not powered. for one of the pods. it read a figure near the 500 (i assume ohms although i dont know as the check is simply a continuity/diode check and not resistance rated) while the ground connection for the other pod was reading 730

for now im going to wait for the magnifying glasses. and will be checking if its possible to take any more readings from the board's components wihtout the need to remove them from the circuit (i know ESR tests can work for capacitors, but i dont have the tool, but im hoping its harmless to confirm the resistors and diodes are working fine without the need to isolated them from the circuit )

Geoff, is there any tools you would be recomending i buy in order to make life easier that do not cost a arm and a leg ?

[GeoffSmith]

The mysterious IC switches the BUZ10 MOSFETs to make the ground connection so I'm not surprised you can't buzz out the 0V.

I use these but I prefer my old pair without the light as they are a lot lighter:


As well as a decent soldering iron, you really need a de-soldering tool. Don't but the 99p specials from China/Hong Kong but go for something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DURATOOL-SOL ... :pf:0#rwid

[Tuga2112]

The mysterious IC switches the BUZ10 MOSFETs to make the ground connection so I'm not surprised you can't buzz out the 0V.

I use these but I prefer my old pair without the light as they are a lot lighter:


As well as a decent soldering iron, you really need a de-soldering tool. Don't but the 99p specials from China/Hong Kong but go for something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DURATOOL-SOL ... :pf:0#rwid

I have a 40w (or possibly 50w) soldering station it works nicely for the other recent sldering jobs ive done, (replacing batteries in GameBoy cartriges, and soldering power switch on a nintendo DS) i also have a set of different tips to use, which im still learning exactly where each is best used.

Already have a desoldering tool like the one you linked, although i dont know its background. it was a gift from my brother.

im assuming your suggestion about the desoldering suction tool implies its common to remove components to test them ?

edit.

the MOSFET transistors in the unit are siemens buz10s2
http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe ... 300-A7.pdf

[Tuga2112]

update on progress.

i have now tested every single resistor and diode in the board.
all resistors read fine, and all diodes read fine, this includes one that was reading "bad" while in the circuit but when i removed it from the circuit i confirmed it was working fine as a diode.
i also tested voltage between each transistor's gate and a known ground in the car. as well as continuity between drain and source just after turning on/off the pods.
both resistors gate voltage did spike when expected, HOWEVER
the continuity test between source and drain of one of them was not recording any difference while the other was.

although i am not 100% confident of my diagnostic. i suspect the mosfet is broken in the closed position.
since the cost of a replacement mosfet is just £2 delivered, i have ordered a mosfet with compatible characteristics which i will test next week and report on progress.

[mikecg]

Hi Tuga and the rest of the chat team , finally now the weather has changed had another look at the RH Pod problem. The lights come on on both sides main and dip . There is a 12 volt voltage (which reverses) across the LH pod motor connection but not the RH pod motor and the RH pod you can manually raise and lower.

I presume this is looking like the RH pod lift module (if correct name) is faulty? As a final check can I run a piece of wire from the LH pod motor feed connector to the RH and switch on the lights?

Thanks

[Tuga2112]

Hi Tuga and the rest of the chat team , finally now the weather has changed had another look at the RH Pod problem. The lights come on on both sides main and dip . There is a 12 volt voltage (which reverses) across the LH pod motor connection but not the RH pod motor and the RH pod you can manually raise and lower.

I presume this is looking like the RH pod lift module (if correct name) is faulty? As a final check can I run a piece of wire from the LH pod motor feed connector to the RH and switch on the lights?

Thanks

mike

the pod lift module is one for both sides.

it sounds like you may have a similar issue to mine.
you can do the same test i did in order to confirm if the motor is fine although it appears my process is not regarded as "safe" by other members but it worked for me.
my transistor replacement arrived today. i will be doing my soldering tonight and check if my pod works.
if im successfull at fixing my pod module, id be interested in having a look at yours after you confirm the module is the issue.

i will be updating the thread whenever i get to do the job

[mikecg]

Right having read the whole message string I went back to my suggestion and took a piece of twin core cable plugged into the LH motor feed, across the engine bay to the RH motor feed (having disconnected the plug and socket on both sides) and the RH pod raised and lowered and stopped correctly so we now know it is not the motor. It was a tad noisier than the left so probably needs some new cogs .

[Tuga2112]

I am HAPPY to inform you that my refurbishment attempt was successfull.

https://youtu.be/b0-8I5FmH4k

[mikecg]

Well done this is great news.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Glad to hear your perseverance paid off. Now, you need to write up a "How To" article...

[John_W]

Yeah, and keep it brief. Not like somebody telling you how to fix your 5th gear.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

And to think, I found that write-up to be helpful.

[dapinky]

There is no such thing as a too-long 'how to' guide....... (except, perhaps, the ones I write )

Much better to have everything mentioned, than to assume that the reader has some knowledge of the steps involved to get between nowhere and point A.... if the reader already knows that the car needs to be chocked and raised on stands, then great - but better to mention it (and anything else along the way which makes life a bit easier for the next guy).

[Tuga2112]

some pictures of the repair.

this is the first connection that i done as just a test, this was later RE-soldered properly which can be seen in the lther pictures





some pictyres taking using a x10 lenses of close ups .

[mikecg]

OI000003.jpg

Good morning chaps I have now removed my pod lift module and can sè that one of the components (transistor?) has overheated and looks very very much like the same problem shown in other members pictures. See my photos

[mikecg]

OI000002.jpg

[mikecg]

Last picture

[mikecg]

Sorry posted same picture twice

[Tuga2112]

check continuity between connections in the affected area and the components those traces lead to.
that should confirm if the PCB traces are damaged or not.
i do not advice removing the transistor, i would recomend disconnecting it. which can be done using sharp snippers (i think thats the right name for the tool) these are the ones i have

i have a few spare transistors of the same specs as the one i used in mine.
i would also suggest resistance checks in all resistors in the board and diode checks.
those are easy things to check while in the board. given everything looks good you may be lucky that its only the transistor.
however, its also possible the transistor is fine and the pcb traces going out from it are the problem.

i mean. it could be a bunch of stuff. learning your electronics is the key thing here. I did my research and fixed mine.. but it took 3 weeks of electronics crash course to save the money.

[mikecg]

Are you testing both the diodes and resistors on the board or isolating them by disconnecting one leg from the board?