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by Rambo » Fri 31.05.2019, 21:33
Have you checked those 15A fuses ?
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by GeoffSmith » Fri 31.05.2019, 21:36
Could be the fuses. You could always try one of the adjacent window lift motor fuses but put it back where it came from as they're 20A.
Fuses locations are in the
Wiki.
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by Wakeykd » Fri 31.05.2019, 21:40
I ve ordered some fuses so will try next week. Thanks again for all your help. I know some of these topics go round and round but it helps with specifics.
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by Fredjohn » Sat 01.06.2019, 00:21
And if it's not the fuses, try the earthing point for the rad fans. It's on the mounting sub-frame which gets a bit rusty, so the earth could easily fail.
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by Rambo » Sat 01.06.2019, 08:35
Wakeykd wrote:I ve ordered some fuses so will try next week. Thanks again for all your help. I know some of these topics go round and round but it helps with specifics.
Just use an equivalent fuse as Geoff has suggested. 5 min. job and you can do it today rather than wait until next week. Fusebox above instrument cluster. 3 is RH fan, 4 is LH fan. You should be able to see if fuse is shot anyway. Also worth checking relay C in the relays situated above the instrument cluster
There is also a 30A cooling fans relay maxifuse (7) that might be worth checking out too
http://wikilec.com/view/FusesAnd try and get to both fans and see if they turn by hand ie are they free enough or locked solid.
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by Wakeykd » Sat 01.06.2019, 09:14
I am back at work now so will try Sunday, the LH fan spins freely, the RH fan turns but feels stiff. Where would I view the earth points on the sub frame? Can you see them from looking down into the engine bay or from underneath?
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by peteoddcar » Sat 01.06.2019, 11:14
Couple of questions - assuming you can get to the car easily if you provide the answers we’ll try to sort you so you can use it on this lovely day !
I think the fan questions have been asked already but can you confirm
1 do they spin when pushed by hand?
2 check the wires from them they go to a separate connector for each one ensure these are connected.located on the bottom flange of the rad mount
If 1&2 are ok
3 locate the fuses and pull them out with pin nose pliers or a fuse puller if you have one, physically look at them compared to an adjacent one if blown it will be obvious even to the untrained eye.
4 another likely cause is the fans Loom earthing eyelet it should have two back wires that ground the cooling fans. have a good look around the radiator mounting they should be visible and under a bolt on the radiator support it’s right in front at the top directly in front of the turbo. If it’s had work done to the rad etc this connection could easily be overlooked.
I think the cooling pump shares this ground but may not as things do get altered over time.
Get back to me if you want any more advice - pm me with you number if you want I can’t drive my car today either as I am recovering from an operation and bored out of my skull
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by Rambo » Sat 01.06.2019, 11:22
1. LH spins freely, RH is stiff by the sound if it
I think he is at work today and won't get round to anything until Sunday
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by Wakeykd » Sat 01.06.2019, 11:44
Thank you for the advise. Much appreciated. I will check all the above on Sunday when I am back home and update on the status. Andy has pm me and he has some fans he bought if I need them.
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by Wakeykd » Sun 02.06.2019, 20:33
All sorted guys. Simple as the 15a fuses in the dash. I ve to run upto temp and bleed the air through but I’m sure it will be fine.
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by Rambo » Sun 02.06.2019, 20:40
Don't forget though that the fuse(s) failed for a reason. And it might have been that been that sticky RH fan. So keep an eye on engine temp/coolant levels for the next few weeks or so
Also worthwhile keeping a few litres of correctly made up coolant in your boot just in case you get stranded. Water will do as a temporary measure but remember it has limited coolant and no anti corrosion properties
Pleased LEC've got you up and running again
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by GeoffSmith » Sun 02.06.2019, 20:52
Rambo wrote:… Water will do as a temporary measure but remember it has limited coolant and no anti corrosion properties …
Water has actually got better thermal properties. Ask any chemist worth his salt!
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by Wakeykd » Sun 02.06.2019, 21:07
Will do Rambo. I ve messaged the prev owner as he has some fans. There is a specialist in Huddersfield after my holidays al take it to for a fresh radiator fans thermostat and heater valve, more for piece of mind.
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by Rambo » Sun 02.06.2019, 21:42
GeoffSmith wrote:Rambo wrote:… Water will do as a temporary measure but remember it has limited coolant and no anti corrosion properties …
Water has actually got better thermal properties. Ask any chemist worth his salt!
So, why bother with ethylene glycol in the coolant mix ? We may as well stick in a couple of cans of Irn Bru like Stevo

You do realise I'm joking ?? I always advocate the ethylene glycol blue/green coolant (not pink OAT) at a 40 % ratio. This takes you down to -25C from memory, essential fir some of our more severe Scottish winters
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Rambo on Mon 03.06.2019, 17:47, edited 1 time in total.
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by lotusflasherman » Sun 02.06.2019, 21:58
Rambo wrote:GeoffSmith wrote:Rambo wrote:… Water will do as a temporary measure but remember it has limited coolant and no anti corrosion properties …
Water has actually got better thermal properties. Ask any chemist worth his salt!
So, why bother with ethylene glycol in the coolant mix ? We may as well stick in a couple of cans of Irn Bru like Stevo

any chemist worth his sodium chloride should know that

.
It lowers the freezing point and raises the boiling point but has lower thermal capacity than pure water so flow rate of coolant is designed to be higher to compensate for this.
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by dapinky » Mon 03.06.2019, 10:06
100Kg of NaCl ???????
IrnBru contains dissolved Carbon Dioxide gas in saturation - this will release with heat and mix with water to create Carbonic Acid. Not what you need in your engine!
Also, the sugar in solution probably won't do it any good, and as it freezes will solidify and mess up the valves and sensors.
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by peteoddcar » Mon 03.06.2019, 11:13
Yes odd both fuses went with only one tight fan, I do recall we chose the 15amp rating to protect the motors from burning out or wiring damage when seized as I don't think the original fans have internal thermal protection as I recall ( but not checked)
With the likely inrush higher currents experienced with a tight fan the fuse will age quickly, and will fail eventually.
I replaced all of the fuses on my car with new genuine Littelfuse fuses when I got it, fuses that run near to their rated continuous will deteriorate over time. Usually described as nuisance blows - no obvious cause.
Rule of thumb 80% of fuse rate is the max continous load
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by lotusflasherman » Mon 03.06.2019, 11:46
dapinky wrote: IrnBru contains dissolved Carbon Dioxide gas in saturation - this will release with heat...
and when you release the pressure cap on a cold engine you'll get the 'opening champagne' experience
M100 should have 15psi pressure cap so water would boil at 121°C, with usual coolant mix that increases to 125°C if I remember correctly...
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by GeoffSmith » Mon 03.06.2019, 11:53
peteoddcar wrote:Yes odd both fuses went with only one tight fan…
They probably went at different times - the seized fan went a long time ago.
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by peteoddcar » Mon 03.06.2019, 12:08
Agreed most likely.
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