Using elanscan

[Chas54]

I was wondering if there are some instructions for interpreting elan scan data anywhere.
I have it running but see information I don't understand.
What are Flags ? .

I had a map sensor on fault which has cleared now I have replaced the sensor , although I don't know what the little resin bead filter thing is for on the take off pipework.

I have a problem with high CO readings from the MOT and the car does smell rich.

Any advice on elanscan would be welcome.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

I can't help with the ElanScan questions but the MAP sensor is not happy if the engine backfires and pushes unspent fuel or any oil into it, so the designers used a filtered vacuum fitting on the intake manifold (#27). These had a plastic nipple which became brittle over the life of the car and often get broken so since they have been obsolete since forever, most people use a standard brass fitting i the manifold and put a small filter (lawn mower is common) in-line.

Click for larger view

[Chas54]

Thanks.. The filter is the bit I was unsure of.It looked a lot like an ionic exchange resin bead to me . Yes mine broke at the tube nipple and the rubber hose was really dry and powdery.
I tried a hot glue gun repair to the filter but I noticed today the glue is soft when the engine is hot so I may try a small inline petrol type filter.And a bit of silver solder to replace the tube connection .

Ive replaced the MAP sensor , which did seam to have an immediate improvement to the steady running, but with the high CO shown at the MOT test , I think something is still encouraging to much fuel to enter the engine.

I am hoping that an Elanscan expert might be able to show me how to diagnose a fuel problem.

Regards

Charlie

[Brit-Car-Nut]

If you have access to a small lathe (mine is a 9x20), you can "repair" the original fitting by cutting the broken tube off at the bottom of the bulge and using a 10-24 tap, thread it. Then using a piece of 1/4inch brass, thread one end to 10-24 just long enough to fill the tapped portion, bore a 1/8inch hole and use a plastic/metal compatible epoxy to make the threaded connections vacuum safe.

That way, you don't end up with an ugly filter in the middle.

There is probably a metric dimension close to what I use, but I have easy access to Imperial bits for significantly less than metric equivalents.

[Chas54]

Thanks

I think I will repair as per your description , but in the short term, while I am struggling to find the cause of the high CO, I have a large hideous petrol filter in the line.

Still running rich though

regards

Charlie

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Charlie,

How high is high?

You don't say which ECM or which Memcal you are using.

There is a known problem with adjusting the CO Pot with the earlier version ECM/memcal. The ECMs are basically the same but the Memcals (program component) are different. The most common memcal is the 9239 / 9929 which are basically the same and a lot of cars won't be able to be adjusted with the CO Pot. Lotus released a version 9930 which now allows the CO Pot to now make the adjustment.

I think the ElanScan will give you the basic info as to ECM / Memcal details.

The replacement Memcal can be ordered from Lotus (A100E0097S) £62.91 or you could consider an add-on kit from http://www.elanchips.co.uk that bypasses the part of the original Memcal and substitutes a chip that has the 9930 code. He also offers a "Performance version" that has the 9930 base code with the higher boost parameters included. Best to contact Alan at the above address to get the current price for the stock 9930 upgrade without the Everest improvement.

I think that the MAJOR Lotus dealers / service centers will do a Memcal swap under the Lotus Warranty program, but you need to verify that.
Anyone that has had a local dealer resolve the high CO this way, please weigh in!

If anyone else has a spare Memcal and wants it to be upgraded to 9930 spec, you could work together and send them to me in bulk and I will re-program to the 9930 version and then bulk ship them back to be distributed by whomever makes the arrangement. You would just have to pay for the postage to me and the postage from me back to whomever. I don't charge for erasing the original memcal and re-programming it. I just need to be funds neutral for the transaction.

If all of that fails, I have a few 9930 memcals that Lotus now says I can offer to anyone needed, but Iam in the US and it will take time for it to arrive. More importantly, like Lotus, I would need your OLD memcal back as there is a hefty core charge on the 9930 Memcal. If I had known early last week, I had an ECM with a 9930 Memcal sitting in the UK and could have had it opened and the Memcal posted to you, but my shipment was posted to me this morning.

NOTE TO GEOFF: Can you explain to CHAS how to record his ElanScan data and upload it to the forum so someone more familiar with ElanScan can identify what he is dealing with???? THANK YOU!

[Rambo]

For Elanscan "experts" can I suggest, in no particular order, there's only on f in Geof Smith (GeoffSmith) and John Wham (JohnW) to name but two. Top of the Premiership

[Simon_P]

Hello Chas54,

It would be useful to know if you are open (no O2 sensor in the manifold) or closed loop with (O2 sensor).

On elanscan check the Coolant Temperature - when the engine is cold ie before you start it does it approximate to ambient temperature and the MAT temperature or does it read something like -40C

To upload an elanscan file I think you have to zip it first then upload the zip file.

After you changed the map sensor did you reset the ECU? does the MAP approximate to the weather forecast with the engine cold and off?

[Chas54]

Thanks for all the information chaps.

I have worked out how to save the elanscan data now, first reading is PROM id at 9929 .

Now ,I think the suggestion is that I should change the chip , which sounds like a good idea as I could then adjust the CO pot but......
The car was running well when I bought it 3 months ago and started being difficult to start and a bit uneven / prone to stall etc about a month ago.

I ran the elanscan and read a MAP fault and on inspection the pipework was very brittle, I changed the MAP and the pipework , broke the little MAP tapping point plastic filter piece, it was brittle. I made a repair with a hot glue gun but this suffered with heat . I now have for a temporary measure a plain copper tapping point and an in line petrol filter. It was OK initially. but I took it for MOT test and had a 6.5% reading at the test centre.
I have an old gunson gas meter at home and when this is hooked up I have about 7.5% , I suspect it may not be as accurate as the Test centre.

To clear the MAP fault I disconnected the battery waited a few seconds , reconnected and the fault was cleared when next elanscan tried.
The coolant temperature looks consistent with the engine , I ran the programme whilst I was checking the fan cut in yesterday.
I have no other faults I can see, but I strongly suspect the vacuum pipework throughout the car may be poor although a squirt round with easy start revealed nothing.

The problem I have with changing the chip and adjusting the CO pot is that I will be adding another variable and the existing problem has not yet revealed itself to me.

I think I will do another elanscan today from cold and then try post the file on this forum . The one thing I don't know is what the Flags mean at the bottom of the list.

Also , I am really gratefull for advice on this, the electronics are a black art for me, ive spent 40 years playing about with pre war Austin Sevens

regards
Charlie

[Chas54]

Sorry, forgot this bit--- no O2 sensor. this is a pre cat model 1991 .
Although there is a ? tag next to next to both the O2 integrator (but a figure of 80 next to that) and the CO potentiometer/oxygen sensor.

The MAT also look like it corresponds with the engine temperature increase- although a lot cooler than the engine coolant of course.

I can see a few drops in the reading though, ie a sharp dip for short duration, is this the sign of a failing resistance ?

I may see if I can record this dip with a Fluke meter. I will have to clip a jump lead from the engine to earth just to ensure I have a good ground.

thanks again.

regards charlie

[Chas54]

Hopefully , I have managed to attach this mornings ECU data . engine run at idle until fan cut in then cut out.

Oh no I haven't !

The forum wont allow an .ECU file extension or the zip compression 7Z .
I'm still using windows 7 so I don't think I have winzip


Is there a secret to doing this ?

Charlie

free trial version winzip......

[Chas54]

OK , I think this may be compressed with winzip. my elanscan data cold to fan cut out 6th Aug 2019


Any suggestions welcomed

regards
charlie

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Change the extension to .jgp or something that it won't refuse. .txt might work, but there might be a size limit that will prevent sending.

NEVER MIND!

[Chas54]

I think I may have placed my elan scan data on a previous reply now, I was hoping some kind soul would comment on the readout. It is free of any fault code but I see some spurious drops in some readings..

The car is still running rich though.

I would love to get this sorted before going for the improved chip.

I figure it must have run OK for previous MOT checks , so have I got something else wrong ?

All advice much appreciated.

Charlie

[RonR]

Hi Charlie,

I'm no expert but it looks like your readings are affected just as the fans come on - usually a sign of a bad earth connection somewhere. There's a diagram of the earthing points in the electrical manual, I'd copperslip and retighten them before spending money elsewhere.
Ron

[Simon_P]

Hi Charlie,

First off - The IAC is at 2 clicks when the engine is warm it should be at 20 - check for vacuum leaks (eg in your MAP hose) and then set the base idle (see wiki) check the base timing also. fix that and then do another scan. Both of these need to be right before you do anything else.

When you do an elanscan from cold the engine needs to be cold ie ambient yours is 38 C, and start logging with the ignition on and the engine stopped, then start the engine otherwise we can't see the full range of readings.

Which MAP sensor did you buy and did you make any checks to prove that the old one was broken?

as Ron says check the ground, particularly the one on the inlet below the MAP filter it is often loose or forgotten after a head gasket changed

Some souls have to work!

[Chas54]

Thanks guys

I like the bad earth theory so I'm going to start there.

I changed the MAP sensor as it said it was in fault and wouldn't reset.

I also changed the MAP hose , but there's plenty of other vacuum hoses that could leak although my normal spray with ether didn't produce and increase in revs.

The read out was intended to be from cold but by the time I realised the laptop wasn't reading the USB input, I had run the engine a few minutes.

The MAP sensor came from SJ sportscars. The little filter pipe connection broke and I have now inserted a petrol filter in the vacuum hose.

I opened up the faulty one but to be honest, there was nothing broken or burnt in it so I cant say why it was faulty, and indeed it may not have been . I can imagine
IAC - once I figure out where and what it is i'll check it .
my fumbling round that area may have improved a bad earth connection and hence I had an improvement for a while.



Sorry if my original posting sounded at all rude, I do realise people have work , I remember well what that was like.
I was more concerned my posting wasn't visible, I struggled somewhat with the zip compression programme.

Thanks again for advice.

[Chas54]

Gents

The IAC advice, may well have some bearing.

I did have problem with the immobiliser and disconnected the battery to silence while I searched for the instructions on how to key in the code on the little keypad.
The keyfob doesn't work even with a new battery.

I see from reading the IAC section on my CD manual, that the IAC is Idle Air Control valve that bleeds air past the throttle . There is a statement that says it has to relearn its position by a drive at steady throttle a little above 30mph after a disconnection. I didn't do this.

So I think I will check the earthing points, check the IAC cables . Dissconnect the battery and reconnect, go for a tootle round at 30ish come home and check the CO.
Leave it overnight to go stone cold then try another scan.

regards

Charlie

[Simon_P]

Charlie,
The IAC is intended to adjust itself and appears to be working so no need to find it yet. But the number is 2 which is almost completely closed and indicates it is compensating for a vacuum leak.
Setting the idle is very straightforward and quite rewarding. You need a paperclip and a flat bladed screwdriver.
The paperclip makes the ECU ignore the learnt settings. But do go for a short drive as it settles all sorts of things. Scan while you are doing this also. EDIT Thinking about it without knowing its procedure in service mode it may be quite important to go for a drive.

I also noticed on the scan that the voltage is not very stable does the gauge read bang on 14? What about if you turn the lights and the fan on?

[Chas54]

Thanks

I will check it out tomorrow, I haven't noticed any voltage fluctuations on the gauge but I may put my meter the battery to watch and log the charging.
Ill have to have a closer look at the the vacuum pipework, although I know it dissappears all over the place for the heater controls.

regards

Charlie