It’s only a small leak, honest

[Simon_P]

Your best bet is to find one.

I have sever other suggestions but they are a bit more involved. It might just be a case of getting the centre pin made - can you get the bits out and take more photos?

[Saltire]

Thanks, Simon - I’m hanging on to see if BCN has one in his stock.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

This is what I dug off a GEO Storm - it uses the same pump used on the M100

Click for larger view

[GeoffSmith]

It looks a bit like this…


Hint#1 Click if you need a hint!
Hint#2: Muley is stuck in NZ

[Simon_P]

Which is off a mazda but the pn doesn't return anything useful.
Also the suzuki swift appears to be an option. The spring and the plunger are the important parts as they set the pressure.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Actually, the spring and plunger activate the switch when the pump pressure rises during very low speed steering/turning and that tells the ECM to increase the engine RPMs to improve the "feel" in the steering.

[dapinky]

Okay, a question to those who know about these things, on behalf of those of us who don't, but didn't want to ask a stupid question.......

... What happens if you were to leave this wire disconected/broken?

Having read all of the above posts about what the broken bit does, would I be correct in saying that it only actually does anything at high steering pressure (ie, when there is most resistance to the turning of the wheels, at low/zero speed).....

.... and at that point it sends a letter to the ECU, and tells the bloke inside to pump up the volume on the engine revs......

- so basically, it still allows a reasonable level of power assistance at low/zero speed as the engine (and thus the pump) turn at a suitable speed.

If this is the case, is there actually a chance of stalling the engine at idle with it broken? or will it simply reduce the power assistance?

Either way, would the effects be negated by simply adding to the throttle?

[GeoffSmith]

If you have problems with stalling then the connection could always be earthed until a fix (I'd be tempted to drill & tap then screw with a brass screw and maybe solder the connection back on) is found.

And it would be helpful if someone could run ElanScan and identify which flag changes when the connection is earthed.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Okay, a question to those who know about these things, on behalf of those of us who don't, but didn't want to ask a stupid question.......

... What happens if you were to leave this wire disconected/broken?

Basically, that is correct... You should be able to add the bit of power yourself. and all should be OK.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

:agree: If you have problems with stalling then the connection could always be earthed until a fix (I'd be tempted to drill & tap then screw with a brass screw and maybe solder the connection back on) is found.

And it would be helpful if someone could run ElanScan and identify which flag changes when the connection is earthed.

Like dapinky, you are also correct. I thought about suggesting a drill and tap and a better connection...
I will ask Gary if he knows which circuit goes to the ECM.

[Saltire]

I must break things more often if it’s going to provoke such a fascinating discussion. Thanks, chaps!

Memo to self, though: when you start off intending to change the cam belt, don’t be sidetracked into scope creep by deciding to clean and paint the power steering bracket. Which means you disconnect the cable . . . and I think you know the rest

[Simon_P]

You would be unlikely to have problems with stalling or applying your foot as the IAC would take over.

I would guess that the pin is held in by the circlip so should just push out, easy enough to get a pin made but it is likely that the head of the pin is the contact so sets the pressure - so shoving a screw up the middle is sub optimal.
The one I found at rockauto for £8 (well it was yesterday!) looks too big but you could probably take the pin out of it.

I must break things more often

Break away! You won't be able to go anywhere for the next 3 months.

[dapinky]

Memo to self, though: when you start off intending to change the cam belt, don’t be sidetracked into scope creep by deciding to clean and paint the power steering bracket. Which means you disconnect the cable . . . and I think you know the rest

Nooooo - if there was no project creep, we wouldn't learn anything new!

(At least you 'just' broke the pin - the first time I took an engine out of an Elan I didn't even see the wire (or read about it's existence) beforehand..... I still remember wondering why things wouldn't come out easily, and then finding the cable hanging down after pulling harder on the PAS pump. I was fortunate in not breaking anything, and now I'm happy that even if I did, it wouldn't be a major issue.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

:agree: If you have problems with stalling then the connection could always be earthed until a fix (I'd be tempted to drill & tap then screw with a brass screw and maybe solder the connection back on) is found.

And it would be helpful if someone could run ElanScan and identify which flag changes when the connection is earthed.

Maybe this will answer your question:

click for larger view

[GeoffSmith]

I know where it goes in hardware, but I'm interested in the software flag it sets which is visible in ElanScan.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

I will ask again, this time more precisely.

[Saltire]

The continuing saga of this crazy car . . . While I have the front off, I took the bumper and light pods to the local coachworks to get them sprayed. My car is B04, BRG (non-metallic), and it looks just like every other BRG Elan I’ve ever seen.

The coachworks has come back and effectively said “Are You Sure”? This is the Lotus BRG colour chip they have:

And this is it against the bumper:

I have a pretty full service history from the three owners prior to me, and there’s no mention of a respray. And anyway, that colour chip just doesn’t look right. And that doesn’t look like fading; it’s a completely different shade of green.

So what’s going on?

Lots Of Thinking, Usually Stressful

[Fredjohn]

I know they should be the same, but B04 is the duPont code. Have you tried the ICI code A65?
Just a thought.

[GeoffSmith]

It's an S2 so should be Du-Pont and your car has always appeared to be BRG. Could you go over to Williams and ask their opinion?

[Saltire]

It's an S2 so should be Du-Pont and your car has always appeared to be BRG. Could you go over to Williams and ask their opinion?

Well, in normal circumstances, Geoff, I would, but while the “interesting” times persist I’m not moving much from home except to not buy food (IYSWIM).

I’m certainly not going to let the sprayer go ahead as things stand without a LOT more research.