ECU to borrow/buy

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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby alan e » Fri 12.06.2020, 18:30

texas2201 wrote:
alan e wrote:
texas2201 wrote:having a problem with misfires and been trying lots of things.... buying parts and swapping them is an expensive way to try and cure a problem. So I thought it better to get a cable from Geoff and link it to Elanscan to identify the problem. However, could not get cable to work and with the help of Geoff thought I would try the paperclip method. Especially after finding no result on the A to B terminals on the ADL plug. Put the paperclip in but it will not go into service mode...... Geoff says he can remember there being a problem with the ECU that might cause this.

So the questions are - does anyone live near Newbury that has a spare working ECU to do a trial swap with mine to see if this cures the problem?

Then if this is the case I will need to find an ECU......


I have a new ECU that i got off of BCN last year it's not for sale but you can borrow it to see if yours is faulty, but i live in Worthing on the south cost not near Newbury.


Thanks Alan very kind of you but Worthing is too far - the only car I have is the Lotus and I would not want to drive it that distance at the moment

That's no problem if still need it i retire in two weeks time and will have time on my hands maybe i can go for a drive to Newbury and fit it for you just let me know if you have not fixed by then.
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Fri 12.06.2020, 19:18

Thanks Alan very kind of you but Worthing is too far - the only car I have is the Lotus and I would not want to drive it that distance at the moment[/quote]
That's no problem if still need it i retire in two weeks time and will have time on my hands maybe i can go for a drive to Newbury and fit it for you just let me know if you have not fixed by then.[/quote]

WOW very kind - you would be most welcome - I will keep you posted
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby Rambo » Fri 12.06.2020, 22:50

texas2201 wrote:
alan e wrote:
texas2201 wrote:having a problem with misfires and been trying lots of things.... buying parts and swapping them is an expensive way to try and cure a problem. So I thought it better to get a cable from Geoff and link it to Elanscan to identify the problem. However, could not get cable to work and with the help of Geoff thought I would try the paperclip method. Especially after finding no result on the A to B terminals on the ADL plug. Put the paperclip in but it will not go into service mode...... Geoff says he can remember there being a problem with the ECU that might cause this.

So the questions are - does anyone live near Newbury that has a spare working ECU to do a trial swap with mine to see if this cures the problem?

Then if this is the case I will need to find an ECU......


I have a new ECU that i got off of BCN last year it's not for sale but you can borrow it to see if yours is faulty, but i live in Worthing on the south cost not near Newbury.


Thanks Alan very kind of you but Worthing is too far - the only car I have is the Lotus and I would not want to drive it that distance at the moment


That is a very fine example of the spirit and generosity of true LEC members. And long may it continue :smt023
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Sat 13.06.2020, 10:30

Brit-Car-Nut wrote:Martin:



First things first... You should consider removing your ECM and checking the harness and plug to make sure it hasn't gotten corroded or damaged. Un-plug and re-plug the harness several time to "clean" the contacts and give it a drive. If things improve, then great! If not, grab one of the new ECMs from Lotus and swap out the Catalyst memcal and install your SE memcal and you should be good to go. PM sent


Did this - no corrosion or damage, fitted it a few times and refitted the unit. A bit better now revs above 4000 but immediately stutters and misfires - clears boosts then misfires and backfires. only boosting to .5. So better but not cured. Odd though - the paperclip now works? but shows no faults - just repeats code12 all the time?

So should I bite the bullet and just order a new ECM?
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby Brit-Car-Nut » Sat 13.06.2020, 13:18

Martin,

I tried to call but nobody answered.

At this point, I would say go ahead and buy a new ECM and swap the memcal if you don't have an S2.

If you have an S2, then the ECM is exactly what you need. If you have an SE, then you will need to figure out which memcal you have and should consider getting the "9930" version which has the additional programming change to allow extended adjustment for CO.

If you happen to have a friend that was programming EPROMs back in the '90s and would be willing to re-program your current EPROM, I would be happy to email you the binary for it.
They will know what I mean by that. I also have a couple of Lotus supplied 9930 memcals on hand, but postage costs have gone crazy with the virus and would probably be cheaper to order one directly. A100E0097S. Damn, I just looked up the price and it is £62.91 with your exchange - £100.00 deposit required to guarantee they get the old one back.
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Sat 13.06.2020, 14:00

Brit-Car-Nut wrote:Martin,

I tried to call but nobody answered.

At this point, I would say go ahead and buy a new ECM and swap the memcal if you don't have an S2.

If you have an S2, then the ECM is exactly what you need. If you have an SE, then you will need to figure out which memcal you have and should consider getting the "9930" version which has the additional programming change to allow extended adjustment for CO.

If you happen to have a friend that was programming EPROMs back in the '90s and would be willing to re-program your current EPROM, I would be happy to email you the binary for it.
They will know what I mean by that. I also have a couple of Lotus supplied 9930 memcals on hand, but postage costs have gone crazy with the virus and would probably be cheaper to order one directly. A100E0097S. Damn, I just looked up the price and it is £62.91 with your exchange - £100.00 deposit required to guarantee they get the old one back.


Sorry I think I was having a nap - over 60 and diabetic - :-) Geoff says his records say he might have one - so he is going to look over the weekend

if not I will order a new one from my nearest dealer in Southampton on Monday

Thanks for you help

Martin
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby Brit-Car-Nut » Sat 13.06.2020, 14:11

No worries. I was under the assumption that you were in Germany...
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Sat 13.06.2020, 14:23

Brit-Car-Nut wrote:No worries. I was under the assumption that you were in Germany...


Normally I would be - but Covid 19 and lockdown with borders closed - I'm stuck in the UK :-(

hopefully back there in a few weeks :-)
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Mon 15.06.2020, 12:13

just waiting to pay for the replacement ECU - However, I had to wait 50 mins for a call back and I have now been waiting an hour for the email so that I can pay for it!!!! how long does it take to send an email.....
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Mon 15.06.2020, 13:40

texas2201 wrote:just waiting to pay for the replacement ECU - However, I had to wait 50 mins for a call back and I have now been waiting an hour for the email so that I can pay for it!!!! how long does it take to send an email.....


called - he had taken my email down wrong...... all paid for should get it next Wed
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Wed 17.06.2020, 17:21

Got the ECU and cable from Geoff. Fittted it after swapping the eprom and everest chip. Runs much better revs beyond 4000 now but once it gets to 5000 I am still getting a slight stutter and a misfire - EML came on briefly once? Attached the cable to the laptop and it is saying 1499 chip fitted - correct - showing the revs - showing no faults. Tried the paperclip and it is showing code 12 repeat with no further codes. Seems to run a bit hotter??? went right up to the max - checked and fans were running and reverse pump on switch off. I think the base timings off and needs to be reset. Would this cause these symptoms? More help needed :-(
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby GeoffSmith » Wed 17.06.2020, 17:30

Everything relies on the base timing being correct so check it out.
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Wed 17.06.2020, 17:46

Thanks Geoff - earliest I can book it in to a garage is next Tuesday....... :-(
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby Simon_P » Wed 17.06.2020, 19:49

You only need a timing strobe (with a long enough lead) and a paperclip to check the timing.

Did you take a scan when the missfire happened? What does the knock counter say?

When you get the missfire does it immediately recover if you ease off slightly and then happen again if you press harder?

When you say the Max is that the 3/4 mark or off the scale?

Do you have a scan that you can post here?
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Wed 17.06.2020, 20:36

Simon_P wrote:You only need a timing strobe (with a long enough lead) and a paperclip to check the timing.

Did you take a scan when the missfire happened? What does the knock counter say?

When you get the missfire does it immediately recover if you ease off slightly and then happen again if you press harder?

When you say the Max is that the 3/4 mark or off the scale?

Do you have a scan that you can post here?


I do not have a strobe and do not know anyone with one

I do not know Elanscan as I have just got a connection today - so many questions

how do I take a scan when it is happening?

It recovers straight away if I partially lift and if I press harderit comes back

boost? it gets to .75 Temp went to the max line - so I pulled over and stopped - checked the fans were working and that the pump was working at switch off

how do I get a scan and how do I post it?

I am a complete novice - sorry
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby Brit-Car-Nut » Wed 17.06.2020, 22:07

When was the last time the thermostat was replaced?

It shouldn't get "off scale" hot in such a short time.

The temp sender and coolant pump switch are different, so see what your scan says the real temp is.
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Wed 17.06.2020, 22:35

Brit-Car-Nut wrote:When was the last time the thermostat was replaced?

Probably years ago when I installed the Aluminium expansion tank. It has been working perfectly until today - when I swapped the ECU?

It shouldn't get "off scale" hot in such a short time.

The temp sender and coolant pump switch are different, so see what your scan says the real temp is.


I'll look in the Elanscan tomorrow
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby Simon_P » Wed 17.06.2020, 23:30

Once you have connected there are two actions start scanning and then start logging and the opposite when you finish. You then have a data set which you can can save - File > Save As. Give the file a descriptive name as you are likely to be doing several runs.

To upload the file here, you need to zip the file and add it as an attachment.

The throttle test is for missfire under load - a likely symptom of HT failure - coil pack, leads and plugs. Usually one of the coils, if so it will get progressively worse. If you are gentle it will last a while.

The 3/4 mark is where the fans come on - more than this requires investigation. When cold check the coolant level if OK as mentioned above suspect a stuck thermostat.

As an aside, when was the last time the coolant was changed - every 2 year is a must.
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby texas2201 » Thu 18.06.2020, 04:20

Simon_P wrote:Once you have connected there are two actions start scanning and then start logging and the opposite when you finish. You then have a data set which you can can save - File > Save As. Give the file a descriptive name as you are likely to be doing several runs.

To upload the file here, you need to zip the file and add it as an attachment. OK will do this

The throttle test is for missfire under load - a likely symptom of HT failure - coil pack, leads and plugs. Usually one of the coils, if so it will get progressively worse. If you are gentle it will last a while. New coil packs,plugs, HT leads replaced a year or two with high quality ones

The 3/4 mark is where the fans come on - more than this requires investigation. When cold check the coolant level if OK as mentioned above suspect a stuck thermostat. [color=#BF00FF]Was working properly the day before.....but a thermostat could go anytime ....it is quite a long time since it was replaced
[/color]
As an aside, when was the last time the coolant was changed - every 2 year is a must.
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Re: ECU to borrow/buy

Postby Simon_P » Thu 18.06.2020, 07:27

If you changed it yesterday it sounds like you have an airlock and need to bleed the system.
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