Causes Of Ignition Not Turning Off

[CallMeLegend]

One of the first things to fix on Missy for the MOT is the engine not switching off when you turn the key to the off position. Even without keys in, when you connet the battery you get a full compliment of dash lights as if youd just turned the key to the on position, even when there is no key in the ignition.

In my head it's one of two causes.

1. Faulty ignition barrel.
2. Faulty ignition relay.

I haven't tested anything yet as she was unloaded & tucked straight to bed, but I'd welcome any further suggestions.

[GeoffSmith]

3. Alternator.

[Rambo]

Hot wired by the Glesgae mafia

[CallMeLegend]

3. Alternator.

How does that work? Electrics are not my strong point.

If the car is disconnected form battery, keys out. When I reconnect battery I get all dash lights, as if the ignition was on, but without the key in.

[GeoffSmith]

It's unlikely, but there was an issue some time ago with incorrect regulator packs. There is obviously a battery supply and a switched ignition supply at the alternator, so if the two get connected together your ignition line is permanently live. Worth asking Stevo if he's replaced the alternator and whether the problem occurred at the same time.

[CallMeLegend]

It's unlikely, but there was an issue some time ago with incorrect regulator packs. There is obviously a battery supply and a switched ignition supply at the alternator, so if the two get connected together your ignition line is permanently live. Worth asking Stevo if he's replaced the alternator and whether the problem occurred at the same time.

I suspect it's not this. Purely because with the keys out when I reconnect the battery you get all lights, as if ignition was on as the key.

[Rambo]

As I mentioned, hot wired. Since Stevo eventually sold it back in Sept. 2018 I suspect it has been further abused and bastardised

Hopefully you got it cheap ?

[GeoffSmith]

It's unlikely, but there was an issue some time ago with incorrect regulator packs. There is obviously a battery supply and a switched ignition supply at the alternator, so if the two get connected together your ignition line is permanently live. Worth asking Stevo if he's replaced the alternator and whether the problem occurred at the same time.

I suspect it's not this. Purely because with the keys out when I reconnect the battery you get all lights, as if ignition was on as the key.

I also suspect it's not this and you should investigate the more likely causes first but if they don't bear fruit then it's another possible cause.

[Rambo]

hi all, im not far getting the orange beastie back to full fettle but im still having no joy tracking down an ignition switch. the part no. is a100m6179s and fro what i can work out its only the electrical switch part that i need and not the whole ignition barrel. the part is obsolete but im wondering if it was common to the carlton\senator? has anyone got stock or had to change one for an alternative?

cheers in advance, stevo.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

A100M6179S is the switch for the LH drive model. According to Lotus, it was used on the LHD Federal collapsing steering column. It is obsolete but it was replaced by A082H6460H which was liquidated a few years ago.

The parts book shows A100M61798S to be the one for the RH drive car. I believe they are interchangeable but the LH drive version may have an additional (unnecessary) connection.

Can you provide a picture of the switch you have? I can compare it to the one used on the US car.

You will need to remove the cowl pieces covering the ignition switch.

I have several NEW switches that work on the US cars in stock. Maybe that will help?

You will have to look at the switch area at the column to see how the wiring was butchered to permanently keep the car hot while the battery is connected.

[CallMeLegend]

As I mentioned, hot wired. Since Stevo eventually sold it back in Sept. 2018 I suspect it has been further abused and bastardised

Hopefully you got it cheap ?

He never did sell it then. I bought it from him this year

[CallMeLegend]

Bit of an update on this one.

Took relay H out, gave it a sharp tap & reinstalled, all good, could start & stop at will for a while, then it started getting stuck on, even with keys out. Repeated process of removing, tapping & testing, success again for a short while. So it's looking like a sticky relay. New relay ordered in order to test properly. Inerestingly when taken apart the relay looks OK inside, not sticky at all.

However, even when the ignition is behaving itself, even with the key out of the ignition I still get the battery light. Faulty alternator regulator has been suggested as the cause of the battery light so I have a rebuild kit for that also. Looking at the wiring diagram if current were coming from a faulty regulator pack to the ignition relay it MAY cause it to stick on, unless I'm mis reading something.

[CallMeLegend]

Turns out the relay was not at fault, this was a bizzare coincidence.

I tried applying inwards pressure to the ignition key when switching off (pressing firmly on end of ket when turning) worked every time. Stop applying pressure, wouldn't switch off.

Took ignition switch off steering column & noticed the hole for the key was a little worn. Used a screwdriverin the hole at this point an again switchedon & off on demand.

New switch ordered from SJ Sportscars.

Now to find the reason the battery light stays on at all time. No voltage registering on dash guage so small drain, hopefully alternator regulator.

[Rambo]

Alternator goosed !!

[CallMeLegend]

Alternator goosed !!

Possibly. I have a rebuild kit.

[Brit-Car-Nut]

If the light stays on ALL the time, more likely a bad diode pack.

[CallMeLegend]

If the light stays on ALL the time, more likely a bad diode pack.

Presumably also known as the regulator

[Rambo]

A few years ago there were some replacement alternators which functioned OK but the light on the dash would be permanently on. I think the diode pack was incorrectly installed or wired ?? I have one of these with the warning light on permanently and it is has been working well for 7+ years now. The warning light being permanently on was annoying (and these days would be considered an MOT failiure as I understand it) so I just covered it up with black tape

The point if all this rambling is that Stevo might have one of these alternators in Missy/Tango/the big orange.... ?????? Have you tested the alternator ? Sounds also like your on board voltage display may also have a fault as it should be reading 12+V at rest and ~14 +V with the engine on

http://www.vehicle-electrical-rewinds.c ... -work.html

[Brit-Car-Nut]

If the light stays on ALL the time, more likely a bad diode pack.

Presumably also known as the regulator

No the regulator is a part that switches the alternator on and off. The diode pack converts the output from AC to DC.

The name "Alternator" came about because it creates electricity as alternating current so needs to be converted back to Direct Current.

[Simon_P]

There are some good suggestions here - work through them methodically.

A common supply is the ignition switch which you have proved is kaput! It supplies the voltmeter and the Alternator light so a new switch might solve all of your problems.... First replace the switch.

After you have replaced the switch...
The voltmeter showing zero just means it doesn't work - it should show at least battery voltage. Fairly easy to diagnose.
If the charge light is still on
Is the Alternator plugged in? If not find out why before plugging it in.

With a meter measure the voltage with the engine running.