Fed car 1991 Airco compressor clutch

[Mcgyver]

Dear all,

reaching out to you regarding the clutch of my AC compressor.

I bought this car about 1 year ago and sometimes, not always, at idling I hear a strange grounding/tikking noise and never was able to find the source of it untill now.

I'm pretty sure now I found the cause of the noise, and it is the wheel of the AC compressor which has a bit of tolerance.
After having posted a picture of the wheel on the Facebook M100 group it seems I'm missing a part of the clutch.

In meantime I also was able to track one of the previous owners of the car, GoM100Go who was also on this forum and in one of his posts , viewtopic.php?f=29&t=20938, he mentions that the AC was upgraded to have R134 gas.

So now I have a few questions and hope someone can help me out here.

1- Can anyone identify the compressor/clutch if it is original or replaced ?
2- Without this missing part do I have to worry the wheel could come off ?
3- Is it still possible to find a clutch or even only the missing part or do I need to replace the compressor + clutch
4- If compressor and clutch need to be replaced are they still available if the one which is now on is still original and if not by which could it be replaced ?

AC_Clutch.jpg

Thanks in advance,

Manu
Belgium

[GeoffSmith]

From the parts manual, it certainly looks like you're missing something.

[Mcgyver]

Compr_Top.jpg

Ok thanks a lot.

So looking at my compressor, see photo of top part compressor, it look like the R12 system 40.23a brackets, allthough in a post of the previous owner he mentiones having filled with R134 ?!

If so then there is nothing missing or am I missing something here ?

Manu

[Simon_P]

Hi Manu,
1. That's not the original clutch. I can't see enough of the compresser but if it was originally R12 it would have been a DKS13G more details elsewhere on LEC. Manifold connection on the rear end.
2. Can't answer without more detail - probably not.
3. I haven't been able to find the original replacement and I'll guess yours is an alternative mounted on the original compresser, which may be why it looks odd.
4. You need to work out what you have first. DKS13G and its repairable - if you find a replacement clutch please share the details.

[Simon_P]

Looking at your picture again it looks like the clutch plate might be missing.

The splined part is the end of the compresser shaft
It should have mounted on it a sprung disc the same size as the slotted face in the picture.

[Mcgyver]

Ok,
so next time I can get the car lifted I will check more in detail to be sure of the compressor type.

For sure I now have more info to get the search going.

Thanks !

[Mcgyver]

Took a better look and it's clear now the bearing of the pulley is the cause.

Is this giving other opportunities to get it fixed ?

Other option for me would be to get the pulley off and place a non A/C belt ?

The I would not have any A/C anymore but the issue is gone and less cost.




Manu

[Simon_P]

Check to see if the belt will clear the A/C pulley first.

The bearing isn't difficult to get but you have to de gas the system to get the compressor off to change it so you may as well get a new clutch and do the whole job.

[Mcgyver]

Ok thanks for the advice.
Will check the belt first
Someone told me to get the compressor out, first the engine must be out ?!

[Mcgyver]

Hi guys,

can someone briefly explain the best way to replace the PAS belt please ?

Manu

[HJ2]

From the top:
Loosen the tensioner (on the PAS pump) (DO NOT REMOVE!) and loosen the bolt where the PAS pump is secured a little so it can pivot.
Tension of the belt is now gone. Slip the belt over the pulley of PAS pump and remove the belt from below.
Or use a knife.

Fit the new belt from above fitst, over the PAS pulley and push the rest down
From below: guide the belt over the air-con pulley (or not if you bypass this for now and use a shorter belt)
And fiddle it over the crank pulley.

Use a lever, long flat screwdriver or alike to stick in the PAS pump bracket as leverage.
Tension with one hand whilst fasten the pivot bolt with the other. It will hold the tension
Fasten the tension bolt and use leverage again if needed (mostly not)

[dapinky]

Remember when you are tensioning the belt by moving the PAS pump, watch that the hydraulic connector (banjo) doesn't hit the fibreglass of the clamshell.

[Mcgyver]

Thanks a lot guys !!!

[Mcgyver]

Update :

Placed the shorter non A/C belt to bypass the compressor pulley but....

I'v put as much tension on the belt as possible, 2-man job and tension to my opinion is ok.

The new belt touches the compressor pulley by a fraction but so little that it even isn't turning the pulley. I can see a bit of evidence on the belt after having driven the car today for about 30 miles.

My biggest surprise is the difference of sound of the engine being so different than before, meaning no other noises than the engine itself running smoothly.

Now should I worry about the belt touching the pulley so little ?

For sure removing the compressor pulley would be best solution.

Anyone done this before and if so can share me how to do this ? Picture of the pulley available at start if this post.

Thanks in advance.

Manu

[Simon_P]

Someone told me to get the compressor out, first the engine must be out ?!

No, evacuate system, undo pipes (1bolt), undo compressor (3 bolts).

But before you do that get an opinion from an A/C tech while having it degassed.

The likley faults are with the compressor if not just the clutch. The compressor is common in the US. Or a hole in the condenser - the Fed. Condenser was on the aftersales list when I last looked.

Not a difficult diy job to rebuild it.

[Mcgyver]

Hi Simon,

Thanks for answering.

The stage I'm in now is getting the pulley off only, as the bearing is damaged.

Manu

[Mcgyver]

Ok guys,

Got it off after a few hundred ticks with a hammer !