Starting/Running Problem

[WayneA]

Last year I had to replace the original fuel pump. I thought all my problems were gone, was I wrong. It started last year before I put it away for the winter. The problem is back and I’m wondering if anyone else had this problem or know how to fix it.

Sometimes the car will start fine and I can ride it for a few miles before the car stalls and the below problems start. Hopefully it will start and run without any issues if I let it sit for a while. Lately the problem is persistent.

* The car only cranks won’t start with just turning the key.
* I have to pump the pedal while cranking the engine.
*I have to keep pumping the gas to keep it running
* Eventually it will idle roughly, but if I do a quick rev it will stall
* While running there’s a BIG misfire issue, no power can’t drive the car.
* After running like this for a few seconds there’s a smell, like rotten eggs or unburnt fuel

What I did so far…
It sounded like a bad coil pack it feels like the car running on 2 cylinders.

* Pulled the plugs and ALL four plugs were fouled.
* All four plugs are getting a spark cranking and at idle.
* No check engine light
* Cleaned the connector for the Hall sensor
* ElanScan shows no faults.

Not sure what to check next I'm thinking maybe the cam angle sensor but I read in the shop manual that “During cranking, and at speeds below 800 rpm the ignition module controls ignition timing based only on engine speeds, but at higher speeds the ECM takes over electronic spark timing (EST)”

Help, I need some guidance. Good luck finding a Hall sensor or an ignition module. Maybe if I change the wiper blades, yea that's it.

Thanks

[Simon_P]

Welcome!

Can you post your scan.

[esprit888]

Hall sensors are available, if you can’t find one locally let me know I have several brand new ones.

[WayneA]

My Bad I never introduced myself. I bought the thing new from a dealer back in 1992. I’m the original owner in the USA of a 30 year old British car that I assume 600 or so were imported to the USA. Can you feel my pain?

Well Elanscan stopped working so I started pulling connectors to see if it through a code or didn’t stall or ran the same. I got to the MAP sensor and when I pulled the plug it stil ran like s**t, so I assumed it was the MAP sensor. I got Elanscan working and after pulling the power for a few minutes it threw a “MAP low” fault so I ordered a Delphi PS10075. Don’t the connector is not compatible. So I hooked the original back up and for some reason I back probed it and 2.39v with the car on –not running. WTF the ECU is not getting the signal.

I got under the dash and to have a look at the harness. When I first got the car I had a shop install an alarm and later on install an electric boost controller. The picture says it all. Before I start yanking at the ECU connector, is there anything I should know or just squeeze and pull?

[Simon_P]

Not sure where the ECU is mounted on the Fed car.
But if you can get it hanging free and still plugged in, there are details in p89 and 101 of the closed loop manual.

Yes, squeeze and pull. You can easily remove the coloured bits if that makes probing easier.

[WayneA]

Well the problem was a “Fuel Controller.” It’s installed between the MAP signal and the ECU. What it does is limit the voltage from going above whatever it is at .92 Bar so the ECU doesn’t cut the injectors. Basically it allows you to run the car with boost pressures over .92 Bar. Bad thing is, the ECU will not add any additional fuel to address the additional boost. You run lean with to much boost and blow up your engine. I had the shop disable it for that reason. They never took it out, just turned it down. It started failing so the ECU stopped getting a Map signal.