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by Graaf » Sat 07.08.2021, 14:17
Just a quick question, how easily should the rod move and how far should it move?
Thanks
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by Graaf » Thu 12.08.2021, 12:32
Graaf wrote:Just a quick question, how easily should the rod move and how far should it move?
Thanks
Nobody???
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by DavidEJM » Thu 12.08.2021, 12:45
Hi
Its been a while since i had to 'wiggle' mine when it was getting stuck. At the time it was solid and needed to be moved with a pair of long nosed pliers.
Once i had performed the 'wiggle' to get it moving, it was easily moved back and forth.
If i remember correctly it was only able to move by around 10mm, but it was a few years ago.
im not really able to check on the car at the moment but hopefully someone will be able to have a look for you.
Cheers
David
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by Steve A » Thu 12.08.2021, 13:46
"If everything is under control, you are going too slow."
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by Graaf » Thu 12.08.2021, 17:02
DavidEJM wrote:Hi
Its been a while since i had to 'wiggle' mine when it was getting stuck. At the time it was solid and needed to be moved with a pair of long nosed pliers.
Once i had performed the 'wiggle' to get it moving, it was easily moved back and forth.
If i remember correctly it was only able to move by around 10mm, but it was a few years ago.
im not really able to check on the car at the moment but hopefully someone will be able to have a look for you.
Cheers
David
Thanks for this. Mine was very stiff. If has loosen a bit and moves further but still needs pliers to move. Think I’ll have to strip it down properly.
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by Graaf » Thu 12.08.2021, 17:10
Steve A wrote:http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28664&p=366977#p366977
Thanks, I’d read that and the ‘wastegate wiggle’ as well. That thread said 14mm and the wiki said 90degrees so just wasn’t sure. Perhaps I should have been clearer as my main concern was how freely it should move - freely with fingers, freely with pliers or stiffly with pliers. I’m just not mechanically minded and wanted confirmation!

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by lotusflasherman » Thu 12.08.2021, 17:35
If you have an electric tyre pump it's much easier to fit a tapered adapter and stuff it in the small rubber tube to the wastegate capsule and use air pressure to 'wiggle the wastegate' by flicking a switch..
I've mentioned it before on other threads .. shame the Wiki post makes hard work of a simple job..
Phil
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by Dave Eds » Thu 12.08.2021, 17:56
lotusflasherman wrote: shame the Wiki post makes hard work of a simple job..
Nothing to stop you from adding your alternative method to the wiki Phil.....

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by lotusflasherman » Thu 12.08.2021, 18:03
Dave Eds wrote:lotusflasherman wrote: shame the Wiki post makes hard work of a simple job..
Nothing to stop you from adding your alternative method to the wiki Phil.....

Is it possible for me to add it to the original thread as an alternative (easier) method or can only the author modify?
Phil
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by Steve A » Thu 12.08.2021, 18:50
lotusflasherman wrote:If you have an electric tyre pump it's much easier to fit a tapered adapter and stuff it in the small rubber tube to the wastegate capsule and use air pressure to 'wiggle the wastegate' by flicking a switch..
I've mentioned it before on other threads .. shame the Wiki post makes hard work of a simple job..
Yes thats a good tip I tried it after I stripped mine

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by Graaf » Thu 12.08.2021, 19:13
lotusflasherman wrote:If you have an electric tyre pump it's much easier to fit a tapered adapter and stuff it in the small rubber tube to the wastegate capsule and use air pressure to 'wiggle the wastegate' by flicking a switch..
I've mentioned it before on other threads .. shame the Wiki post makes hard work of a simple job..
Thanks, a saw that but don’t have an electric or bicycle pump. Did think about mugging one of the local kids but thought that might be a bit risky

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by lotusflasherman » Sun 15.08.2021, 14:56
Graaf wrote:Thanks, a saw that but don’t have an electric or bicycle pump. Did think about mugging one of the local kids but thought that might be a bit risky

Tyre pump with a gauge is best as you can see what is happening .. I use a Ryobi pump I can preset in 1 psi increments from 10. EMK3 p30 says you should get 2mm of rod movement at 10 psi (+/-0.2psi) as the rod starts to move. Factory settings for Max Boost is 0.65bar (9.43 psi) and Overboost CEL occurs at 0.92 bar (13.5 psi) which also switches off injectors - bloody embarrassing if you've just overtaken somebody ..

Phil
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by Graaf » Sun 15.08.2021, 17:30
lotusflasherman wrote:Graaf wrote:Thanks, a saw that but don’t have an electric or bicycle pump. Did think about mugging one of the local kids but thought that might be a bit risky

Tyre pump with a gauge is best as you can see what is happening .. I use a Ryobi pump I can preset in 1 psi increments from 10. EMK3 p30 says you should get 2mm of rod movement at 10 psi (+/-0.2psi) as the rod starts to move. Factory settings for Max Boost is 0.65bar (9.43 psi) and Overboost CEL occurs at 0.92 bar (13.5 psi) which also switches off injectors - bloody embarrassing if you've just overtaken somebody ..

Thanks for this. I’ve got an Everest chip and it won’t bust past .5 bar.
I’ve decided to get the car jacked up, take out the actuators and clean everything down and see if it frees up.
After that I’ll start on the missfiring. An MGA is looking more and more interesting!
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by Fredjohn » Sun 15.08.2021, 18:02
Graaf wrote:
Thanks for this. I’ve got an Everest chip and it won’t bust past .5 bar.
Is that what you see on the gauge or from an elanscan? The gauge is not necessarily accurate, especially if the earth connection on the transducer is dodgy.
Get an elanscan reading if you can in order to verify the actual boost.
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by Graaf » Sun 15.08.2021, 20:17
Fredjohn wrote:Graaf wrote:
Thanks for this. I’ve got an Everest chip and it won’t bust past .5 bar.
Is that what you see on the gauge or from an elanscan? The gauge is not necessarily accurate, especially if the earth connection on the transducer is dodgy.
Get an elanscan reading if you can in order to verify the actual boost.
I’ll give it a go tomorrow and see if I can find anything.
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