Engine removal tips and advice please..

[trig]

I'm removing my M100 lump with Head gasket problem and replacing it with another lump with half the mileage, and hopefully no problems!

I'm looking for a few tips from the people who have undertaken this scary job,,, well it is for me as I'm not mechanically trained but I have a lad who works for a Saab main dealer giving me a hand,, I know there totally different cars , its the lack of spanner swinging room which will be are biggest problem..

I have had a look for a write up but have drawn a blank

Can I remove the engine with turbo attached?

Would dropping the sub-frame that sits next to the sump with the no jacking sticker(sorry don't know its part name) but would removing this help?

Any useful tips will be gratefully received

Steve

[dapinky]

Can I remove the engine with turbo attached?

Would dropping the sub-frame that sits next to the sump with the no jacking sticker(sorry don't know its part name) but would removing this help?

Steve,

Leaving the turbo on makes for a difficult job - not because it's tricky - but just because it limits the amount of room to lift the whole lot out.

I would suggest leaving the gearbox attached to engine, but removing the turbo/manifold/pre-cat as a single assembly first - and leave the inlet pipework still attached! That way, the whole lot lifts out quite stable.

The only sticking point is removing the driveshafts from the gearbox, but by undoing the front wishbones at the inner upper pivot and ball joint, there is enough room to swing them outwards and pull the driveshafts out from the gearbox as it lifts on a crane.

AFAIK there is no advantage to touching the prongeron (subframe with no jacking stickers).

[muley]

Never done it myself, but there's some useful tips in this thread

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=9051&hilit=removal

[trig]

Steve,

Leaving the turbo on makes for a difficult job - not because it's tricky - but just because it limits the amount of room to lift the whole lot out.

I would suggest leaving the gearbox attached to engine, but removing the turbo/manifold/pre-cat as a single assembly first - and leave the inlet pipework still attached! That way, the whole lot lifts out quite stable.

The only sticking point is removing the driveshafts from the gearbox, but by undoing the front wishbones at the inner upper pivot and ball joint, there is enough room to swing them outwards and pull the driveshafts out from the gearbox as it lifts on a crane.

AFAIK there is no advantage to touching the prongeron (subframe with no jacking stickers).[/quote]

OK, thanks for the info and advice, it was very helpful..

I have removed the turbo/manifold which does leave a lot more room to maneuver and have undone and removed almost everything from the engine ,, just need to remove the drive shafts now and hopefully it will lift out

Here's a couple of progress pics, as we all love piccys in posts

[MattDon]

i need to do the same thing myself, ive got two engines than need removing so i'll be keeping a close eye on this thread.

[trig]

A bit of an update...well my new engine is in only took 8 months

Basically once the engine was out there were too many rusting parts to ignore so I set about removing, cleaning and repainting,, I also decided it would be a good idea to replace the alternator which was working but the casing was cracked.

The steering rack was also upgraded to the S2 rack from the after-sales ( be careful if you order one of these as the first one sent to me had both rack gaiters leaking from small holes!!)

Its almost ready to go back on the road I'm just waiting for a PCE to arrive then I can refit the turbo,....just a shame it wont be ready for Castle Combe

[trig]

Some progress pics

Engine ready to be fitted


After three attempts it went in , discovered that the engine needs to be at the correct angle to fit , I had the wife assisting me so it was a bit scary and sweary

Wile removing the front suspension assembly I noticed that most bushes were in prety good shape for a 18yr old car apart from the rear Raft bush which was completly shot also the arb drop link bushes were worn
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o22/ ... rts124.jpg

The raft bush was replaced with new rubber and the drop link was partly poly bushed http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o22/ ... ild222.jpg

[trig]

My freshly painted cover

[Jackonicko]

Nice work! I like the Stealthy heat shield...

[trig]

Nice work! I like the Stealthy heat shield...

Thanks, as much as I like the shiny heat shield I didn't wont my engine bay to be too blingy

I used Halfords very high temp spray paint and it looked so good on the heat shield that I did the rocker cover with the same paint then gave it a cote of lacquer

[Candles]

I love the project creep! Nice workshop setup.

[Monty]

Nice work Steve

[trig]

I love the project creep! Nice workshop setup.

Tell me about it , project creep is an unavoidable disease , my engine was supposed to be in and out over the winter and all up and running ready by April
I do feel like I've go to know my car a lot better and now it owes me a good time

[roy666]

Hi All... I thought I would link into this trail as I'm about to start the same event. However, other than the snippets on here, is there any other detail about the engine removal process anywhere?... or is it as simple as just following the notes in the Service Manual EC11..etc. cheers M

[dapinky]

Mike,

I'm not sure that I followed the manual, but apart from the snippets above in the thread, the only other info I can give is to feel round the back for the knock sensor wiring once the engine is on the crane and lifting. You can't get at the connector whilst the engine is fully in, and the lead is long enough to lift the thing so the inlet is above the bulkhead, then you can unplug it far easier.....

.... more important to remember to reconnect it when refitting, as otherwise it will cause lots of heartache if you place the engine on the mounts first!

[roy666]

Ok Thanks Dave... I will use the manual as a bit of a hand rail... but I think I've got enough to get cracking.... cheers again M

[roy666]

All moving along ok..however, just hit a problem with the OS drive shaft; just cant shift it off (out of) the gear box. I know it needs a sharp knock (I've done it before) but this time my removal tool is just getting bent every time I hit it. I've tried lifting up the shaft from the wheel hub end so it relatively horizontal to see if eases the pressure..but still not budging. By any chance does anyone have any amazing tool or 'Harry Potter' remedy for this. cheers M.

[RonR]

Roy,
The driveshaft fits over the end of the Jackshaft with a square section expanding thingy which is a little more reluctant to pull off than the Left side with it's round section expanding thingy.

I've just removed mine with a slide hammer with forked attachment which fits behind the tulip, making sure that everything was lined up as you say before letting rip with the slide hammer. Even then it took quite a few goes for the shaft to pop off.

slide hammer fork.jpg

[Simon_P]

The O/S has the link shaft so not sure if you mean N/S.

[roy666]

Thanks Ron..good idea.... and Simon, yep it was the NS; however, got it sorted now... jut didn't realise how hard I had to hit the thing. cheers M