Jonathan,
I believe you based your initial thoughts on my own approach anyway - so your list isn't too different than mine.
That said, I have yet to pull the trigger on shocks and springs, as it rolls round the garage quite happily on the 31 year old units, so they will get looked at later...... I've done the research though, and at the moment (much as I like AVOs on my own car) I will probably go for GAZ shocks as they are £20 each cheaper.
I have some enquiries out with spring manufacturers, but at the moment, no-one is interested in supplying just 4 units for a good price - or at least, no cheaper than I can get a set from Steve at SJs. Still waiting on 3 other companies. As with anything, it is the set-up which costs the money, and if I order 10+ units of each design, then the price comes way down..... maybe I'll look at a group buy, but as I say, not worried at this time. Also, depending on the condition of the current springs (not had a really good examination yet) I may just clean and paint them and fit them to new shocks..... I can then set the ride height to account for the 'sag' of the springs anyway.
As per above reply - all bushes get changed (I am fortunate enough to have a spare pair of rafts, so I have cleaned them up, removed the old bushes and pressed the new ones in, and that will save time later on. I also have a set of upper wishbone arms to do the same - but this car came with a brand new set, with no bushes fitted, so will have poly bushes pushed in.
Lower arms take a bit of cleaning up (not done this one yet) and I have yet to find a bad bottom balljoint.... I change the grease and boot as a matter of course.
I've bought a pair of top balljoints as a matter of course - not because the ball wears, but because the 2 bolts which hold it to the wishbone arms often seize in the joint housing, so it's easier to chop the bolts and replace the joints.... if the old ones are not seized, I'll keep them for another car (except they'll probably end up being used on someone elses car who needs them before I do).
The antiroll bar joint/pivot/link gets changed for an M12x160, grade 12.9HT bolt, 9 washers and a rose joint (detailed elsewhere).
I like to replace as many bolts as possible with Stainless - remember that most Stainless bolts are not HT, so are okay for fittings that don't take much stress, but I'd never use them on suspension units. All A2 Stainless bolts, and most A4, are rated as "70" (written as "A4-70") and unsuitable, but if you use "A4-80" then they have the same tensile strength as mild steel grade 8.8 bolts, so are okay for many/most of the replacements.
It is important to remember that stainless steel bolts 'stretch' more than mild steel, so torque figures need to be set approximately 25% lower to get the same tightness.
There are bolts which need higher grades than 8.8, so stainless isn't applicable - mainly the ones that take the biggest weights - ie, the bolts through the top wishbones/balljoints and the ones holding the yokes to the shocks - I just change them for new allen-headed ones and 'k' nuts.
After that, it is all just cleaning/painting/protecting everything using a good chassis paint.
This is my general "shopping list" that I am working to at the moment - it is by no means definitive - some items will be bought, some wont, depending on need when I get to them.
The items in yellow are 'ordered' orange are 'delivered', the ones in red I already have/had on the shelf.
The list of stainless bolts includes those for the prongeron, seats and various other bits and pieces.... it may need adjusting for your requirements as I already have some on the shelf.
