Starter Motor won't turn over

[GeoffSmith]

The relay pull in voltage is usually less than 8V so it should work but best to charge the battery to make absolutely sure.

[Bern]

I found where the alarm interrupts the starter feed, and was getting 12V back.

Next I moved onto the starter relay, it wa a bit of a struggle to gwt it out, as I wriggled it the starter turned (and it wasn't in gear either).

So I assumed a dodgy relay. I disconnected the battery and pulled it out. As luck would have it I had a 5 pin 40 amp relay at home, and both had the standard pin layout. Put the new one in and the Elan started first time!

The most difficult part of the whole operation was lining up the screws on the instrument cover and steering nacelle when putting it back togther!!

Thanks for all the suggestions and help, it would've taken me a lot longer to get there without it.

[muley]

I found this thread to be useful, but ..

After my cambelt change and alternator installation, I attempted to start the car. It turned over for a second or two then stopped

When I attempt to turn it over I get a click and the interior light dims a bit

Battery is fully charged

I've removed the plugs to make things easier for the starter motor

I read this post and thought (hoped) it was a duff relay. I swapped it with the stop relay and still the same symptoms

Oddly, the fan and windows still operate with the ignition/start key in the start position

I connected my tracer bulb to the solenoid power line at the starter motor and it lights up

Are there any other things to check before I pull the starter motor out? [a job I'd rather not do!]

[dapinky]

Jim,

I'd put 6d on it being the earth strap to the engine.

You can try putting a jump lead between the engine block and the battery negative - if it spins then it's an earth problem.

Even if you think there is some earth (continuity) between the block and the car, there may not be a good enough connection for the big amps that the starter uses.

[Tuga2112]

Oddly, the fan and windows still operate with the ignition/start key in the start position

theres nothing odd about that. its just meant to work without the engine running.

i second Pinky's suggestion about the earth strap. A couple months ago my NA started would click but not spin. i went through all the checkpoints and even took the bugger out to rebuild it. and after rebuilding it still didnt work. so replaced with a new isuzu one from rockauto.
handed over the rebuilt starter to a professional who told me it didnt need any work. and bench testing worked fine.. yet i insisted he rebuilt it and paid for the job done again....
wouldnt work. then someone mentioned the earth strap (which i very reluctantly checked after telling them it couldnt be that because multimeter was reading continuity between battery earth and engine metal... and cleaned some grime from there..

the old starter worked fine... so i now have a spare new starter in the shelf

[muley]

Thank you Dave and João

I'll check that some time over the weekend

(Busy day today - it's my birthday!)

[muley]

..well, I checked and the earth was fine

So, for the last few days I have spent approx one hour per day (on average) trying to get a spanner on the upper starter motor set screw

I've tried every type of spanner without succes

I think I'm going mad

When does a hobby become a total pain in the backside?

I might just take a big swig of man-up juice and take the freaking engine out altogether,!

[peteoddcar]

Don’t shoot me for patronisation
Have you put a spanner on the front pulley and turned the crankshaft back wards and forwards ?

[muley]

Don’t shoot me for patronisation
Have you put a spanner on the front pulley and turned the crankshaft back wards and forwards ?

No shooting here. Good call; making sure it's not a jammed pinion. Engine moves (relatively) freely back and forth. Worth noting the warning lights don't dim with ignition switch in start position

[peteoddcar]

So, I am a bit concerned that the ignition drop out relay doesn’t seem to be operating.That as others have said means the start relay or the ignition relay and or wiring is faulty.
That aside
Check the supply on pin 30
can you bridge the start relay J (far right lower in binnacle box) across the power and output contacts. 30 & 87
Pull the relay and with a decent insulated link with male 6.5 blades. Solenoid should at least click with a hood fat spark. It’s really unusual but not unheard for a solenoid to go open circuit. I am describing roughly how I’d go about the diagnosis.

30
I *
I —— I
——*
87

Good luck

[peteoddcar]

Sketch of what to bridge

[muley]

Thanks for your post.

I'll try that; but note that in the start position I get power at the solenoid lead (and a slight click)

Cheers

Jim

[peteoddcar]

Worth a try only a few minutes to do it has the car got an alarm or immobiliser
Slight click from the solenoid implies it’s a bit stuck sometimes a sharp tap on the body of the starter can release it
It’s such a pig to get off the car - manual suggests prongeron removal

[lotusflasherman]

Thanks for your post.

I'll try that; but note that in the start position I get power at the solenoid lead (and a slight click)

Cheers

Jim

Jim, you may get Volts showing but not the power you need. Starter Motor pulls 100amps on cranking the engine (12V, 1.2kW)
Try positioning a Voltmeter so you can see what the volts are when the Ignition is turned to Start position.
It's a pre-engaged starter so first action of the solenoid is to engage the cog with the flywheel ring-gear and in that position the solenoid closes some heavy duty contacts to energise, and spin the motor, that's where 100 amps is taken. "Clicky clicky" is indicative of only the first stage being reached, battery feed not being enough to complete the process. Have you got another battery you can try? (S2 has a +ve battery post in the engine compartment doesn't it?)

PS .. Stuck starter motor used to be released by putting it in 1st and pushing car backwards, or reverse and forwards, but pre-engaged don't usually get stuck.

[peteoddcar]

Solid advice from Phil
I note you change the alternator- check the other end of power cable, it will have been wiggled it’s a long shot but worth a check.

[muley]

..another good call, thank you

I'll double check / clean and remake the connection

[muley]

Thank you for your help and input

I connected a voltmeter and saw a drop when start switch was used ~ this implied the juice was getting through to the starter motor itself

I replaced the battery with a newer one (I had been connecting that with booster cables) and ....

...I turned the switch to the start position...

...and the motor span up like a good'un


I'll install a brand new battery tomorrow

[lotusflasherman]

:oops:

I'll install a brand new battery tomorrow

Much easier than installing a new starter motor .. ..

[peteoddcar]

Great stuff ! I so pleased you’ve got it sorted.
We covered quite a few “could be’s”

[muley]

Solid advice from Phil
I note you change the alternator- check the other end of power cable, it will have been wiggled it’s a long shot but worth a check.

I did clean and remake the connection to the starter motor; this might have been part of the issue ~ or possibly all of it.