Clock replacement upgrade to USB charging hack

[awaken101]

Lil something I'm working on. Posted it to the FB group but best to share here.

Just bought a new BT stereo for the Elan (my 3rd now... ugh It's a Pioneer SPH-10BT btw.). It's a model that's 5 years old but has the options I wanted aside from how to charge my phone. It has a USB-A port in the stereo, but my new phone can fast charge via USB-C so I went looking for options. This is labeled as "
Linkstyle RV USB Outlet, QC3.0 USB A & PD3.0 USB C Port Charger Socket Panel with Indicator & Switch for 12V/24V Car Marine, 2PCS" on Amazon in the US.

The current stereo I have has a USB connector in the backend to power an external port, that is currently routed through my old cigarette lighter hole via a hub that fits that hole. The stereo replacing it does not have the USB connector option so it was back to the drawing board on how to minimize cords. I hate having to plug an outlet into the cig lighter and plug that into my phone... I smoke so I'm delighted I can use the cig lighter again instead of the electric lighter I store in the glove.

Took some measurements on the clock face and since I read it "can" be a possible battery drain, I had already planned to remove it for something more utilitarian. Bout an hour of research on Amazon had me come across a fitting that would cover the rectangular hole perfectly for a USB-A & USB-C port WITH the option to turn it off, negating any drain how small it may be while I don't use it for charging.

Went to the local hardware store to find some brackets to properly mount the facade since the rectangle in the dash is wide. The holes on the new mount are for drilling into a hard surface to secure it, we don't get that luxury nor would I drill into the dash at any cost. Found some screws and a S-type hinge to brace it up to the backing of the dash. Have yet to finalize a fit but a rough fitting seemed to be perfect. Next step is to splice into the clock power and hope that works to charge my ports.

Below are some pics of what's gone on so far. I included the dimensions blueprint because if you can find any other component that could fit in that exact space (water pressure, oil gauge.. .ahem, FunElan) it would almost look seemless to the interior. Will keep you all updated on the final portion of this install. Cheers!

[dapinky]

That looks like a suitable thing to put where the clock sits (more so for a UK car where you can't even see the clock whilst driving).

My only thought is that if you take the power from the current clock wiring, will the cable gauge be sufficient to supply the USB outlet? Obviously, fuses can be uprated, but I'd hate to see your car go up in flames because of an overheated cable behind the dash. Maybe still running the power from the rear of the lighter is the better option, but if the clock cable is enough, then it is enough!

[awaken101]

Maybe still running the power from the rear of the lighter is the better option, but if the clock cable is enough, then it is enough!

Was considering that, right now that power is being used for my dashcam setup. If I'm going to reinstall the cig lighter, probably not best to spice into them for all 3? Since the dash is off and I'm doing some audio work it may just be best to run a dedicated line back to the battery. Not sure just yet but will fiddle around and see what won't burn down the car, LOL. Thanks for the suggestions Dave!

[dapinky]

I run the dashcam, double USB (type A) socket, reversing camera and lighter from the lighter feed.......

.... the dashcam uses very little power, likewise the reversing camera (and not constant!),the lighter is occasional, and the USB is just for my phone.

The wiring for the clock will be okay for a low-current USB (Type A), but my concern is if you (or someone else) decided to use the Type C for a high-draw item like a laptop.... I suppose by keeping a low value fuse in the box it would stop anything untoward from happening anyway.

[Tuga2112]

If that circuit original fuse is 5a I wouldn't worry.
If it was something lower that's when I would be considering options.
The lighter circuit is more robust by design and I would give those wires preference/priority if I was doing something "major".

As a rule of thumb. If you don't change the fuses and they don't blow. Your safe. The circuits are designed so that the fuses are the weakest link.

If you need to change the fuse. You can measure the thickness of the copper in the wires and compare to a wire from a different circuit that has a bigger fuse.
If they have same thickness, you are probably going to be ok with upgrading the fuse.

I run a USB charger from the cigarette lighter that has been installed in a customised AC switch plus front and reverse camera on the same lines and it all runs on the original fuse. As well as having the radio wiring itself adapted to switch on with the ignition and dim when the lights are on

As a rule of thumb don't change fuses unless you can make them smaller than what they were originally, for instance if you upgrade to LEDs add lumps, you may find it's safe to lower the rating of the fuse because they will drain less... But that's something I haven't tried yet because we always have that parallel resistor adding unnecessary current

[awaken101]

Thank you Dave & Tuga, you both are always a great source to get feedback from and I truly value everything both you have to say.

As I'm on this journey I'm taking it all in and will let you know if things got tits up or tits down. May have some more questions in the forth coming week. Stay tuned! Cheers!

[awaken101]

That looks like a suitable thing to put where the clock sits (more so for a UK car where you can't even see the clock whilst driving)

FYI it's the same for us FED driver BTW.

I live by this mentality with a clock these days: https://youtu.be/s_x35O2dlnw?t=119

[awaken101]

Ugh, I hate it. I've mentioned this hack and now others are doing it, with their own style... with parts that do not fit.

Did the specs, measured it all out and bought the component that would BEST FIT the clock hole. I'm guessing its a US vs. UK option, but the one I purchased fits perfectly... seeing blokes buy shorter version which make empty gaps that are not cool IMHO. I dunno... people are free to experiment just as I did. But it took me awhile to find the one that'd seal up and close the gap perfectly, if people want to ignore that... fine. Maybe they are not available in the UK. Please, anyone in the UK, don't go destroying your clock over something I recommended.

This is the one I bought... please see if you can get it as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNGBN6PC?re ... in_title_3

Name on Amazon is: Linkstyle RV USB Outlet, QC3.0 USB A & PD3.0 USB C Port Charger Socket Panel with Indicator & Switch for 12V/24V Car Marine, 2PCS

[Tuga2112]

its not your fault that others fail to follow your lead correctly.

I encorage everyone to find/design their own unique mods to the car and hopefully share them with others to help improve everyone's cars.

but personally. I have my own improvement when it comes to charging the phone. i am still working on it, and if your in the right facebook group, you would know of a working prototipe. but i will keep this mod a bit quiet until i have it finished

[muley]

Looks like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charging-Socke ... NCdxGtT3-q

can be found in the UK