Gear shift cable conversion

[mizliz]

I am getting ready to convert a friend's M100 gearshift cables to Izuzu cables, but have one problem. I have a copy of Derek Heaton's write up and Joel's notes, but the diagram is not a good copy. To modify the Izuzu bracket on the transmission, does it need to be rotated clockwise or anticlockwise? I don't want to mill it in the wrong direction!

[Fubar1764]

Mizliz,
Sorry, I'm not understanding. What's the end game? Are you talking about the mounting bracket that goes onto the engine or are you talking about the shifter itself?
I just got through the ABMotorsports shift cables. The installation is pretty straightforward following Derek's instructions. I'm perfectly happy to walk you through the process with the Isuzus, which should just be a slight variation of the ABMotorsports.
Cheers!
Jack

[Doc Fizzix]

mizliz

Just so happens I have Derek old car

I am taking pics later, I will post a pic of the bracket

[mizliz]

Yes, it's the bracket that mounts on the engine for the front end of the cables. I have the Izuzu bracket that needs to have the left lower mounting hole elongated so that it can rotate a few degrees around the top right stud to suit the Izuzu cables. The car is left hand drive if that makes any difference. I'm hoping that the pic that doc fizzix's is going to post will make it clear. Many thanks, Ken

[Fubar1764]

Ok. You don't want to elongate the lower hole. If you do (with a reamer), you'll have a huge hole larger than the head of the bolt. I wouldn't recommend trying to fix this with a larger washer.
If you're looking at the bracket from its side, meaning you can see the two holes for the bolts with the cable mounting points to the left, I would mill down the bottom of the bracket on the southeast corner, just past the bracket mounts. You probably only need 1/8th to 3/16 to make the fitment right. This way, you don't have to ream the bracket and weaken the point at which the bracket mounts to the engine.
If you have a table mounted disk grinder, that's perfect. If I had to guess, you probably only need to shave off half an inch or so to get the fitment right. Sorry Ken, but I think this is a trial and error procedure. I would certainly NOT make the mounting hole larger on the bracket.
Once you have the bracket ground down, I would, per Derek's suggestion, paint the bracket with a primer to prevent any kind of rust on the bracket.
Finally, if you do decide to go with reamnig the hole (that just doesn't sound right, does it? ), you'll need to get a bolt with a larger head, hoping that there's not enough fatigue on the metal over time to snap the head off the bolt - if that happens, you're in a world of hurt. Which is why I think it's better to grind down the bracket. But if you do go with reaming and a larger bolt, go with a low tensile steel, the less brittle, the better.
Good luck!

[mizliz]

No, I'm not thinking of reaming out that hole. You're right, that would make a weak point. My problem is whether to mill out the bottom left hole (when you're looking at the bracket when it's mounted on the engine) to the left or to the right, thus allowing the bracket to be rotated a few degrees. If I mill to the left of the mounting hole, the bracket will be turned anticlockwise. I think it should be milled to the left to turn it a little clockwise, but I'm not sure.
That's a good idea to prime it after machining.

[Ashaman]

Why convert at all? Personally, I would either fix the old cables, or I would do the AB cables.

AB Cables are superior, but expensive.

Isuzu cables are cheaper, but are the same poor design and will break again, plus you have to do some mod/fab work.

To me, if you are already taking everything apart, why not just save yourself the trouble & repair the originals ala the writeups? You can fix them & have them reinstalled in a day... You will still have crummy shift cables and will have to do some work, but at least it won't be costing you additional money for the experience

[mizliz]

The problem with the original cables is with the plastic anchor at the transmission end. Is there a way to fix that without having the same weak point?

I already have a pair of Izuzu cables and they look as though they will last a long time. I agree there are better cables available but they are much more expensive than my friend wants to get into.

[Doc Fizzix]

I took a few shoots today but it is hard to see, i need to remove the intake in order to get a better shot. I will try in the morning. By time I got to it my daughter had to go to soccer. Sorry, check back tomorrow

[Fubar1764]

Ken, I think your best solution is to shave off a part of the bracket on the lower right hand corner (from your same perspective) so that that end isn't butting up against the engine.
FYI, the ABMotorsports cables are a PERFECT fit. They literally slip right in. We had the good sense to match the new cables to the old ones. When we installed them, we were within 1/4 inch of where we needed to be. The mounting bracket slipped perfectly into place. It's absurd how easy it was. Frankly, the time not spent in frustration was well worth the added expense. And from what Nitro says, that's one of the hardest jobs on the Elan. I don't believe him as this was waaaaaay too easy. . . .so did I sell ya on them?
Ashaman, have you attempted a fix on the cables? I'm not sure they can be fixed, but then again, I'm not the consummate wrench you are.

[Doc Fizzix]

One thing to think about is that the modification to the Isuzu gear shifter cables changes the location of your shifters pattern. I hope this make since so let me explain more.

The Isuzu modification throws the shift pattern off a little bit to the right so your shifter is no longer centered, it tilt more to the right and changes the feel just a little bit but nothing major. I have not look to carefully at the modification but I do have Derek's original write-up and the car

I am assuming that the shifter cables from the Isuzu are a little bit different length than the Elan cables so this is why the shifter would be moved over to the right a bit. I have never tried to adjust it because it is not that big of a deal.

[Ashaman]

Oh right...the transmission end. Yeah, that one is a little tougher but can still be done. Somewhere here on the board there was a writeup on how to do that as well, I have never done it though personally so I don't know how well it worked in the long term....maybe someone else who has can comment?

Yes, I did a similar fix, but it required a little bit of welding. Basically I just tacked some nuts onto the top of the bracket and made forked retainers that then bolted on top. I have some photos on my car page here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/608786/4

Not necessarily pretty, and not easy to install either, but it works really well. As Fubar has said though, this is not really a fun job, my main motivation was that I didn't have any downtime, I was able to get it back on the road the next day.

I was just thinking that if you are going to try to save some money and start adapting, you can work with what you have....and if you want to get something better & easier to install the AB cables are available.

At any rate, the original cables DID last for 14 years, so if you use the isuzus hopefully they will be good for at last that long also. Good luck!

[mizliz]

Many thanks for all of your responses. I think I'm beginning to see the light. If I could offer the bracket up to the engine it would probably be obvious. The trouble is that the car is more than an hour away and not readily accessible. I gather that the bracket won't quite fit on the 2 studs but can be modified, either by grinding some metal off the lower right corner, or, by arcing the lower left mounting hole to rotate it clockwise a little (as in Derek's article). I'm trying to get everything ready here at my shop to take over to the car and bolt it right up. Am I on the right track? Life is not supposed to be easy!

[Exbury]

I know this probably will not change your mind, however I had the cables break on me the day after ownership and spent 1.5 days (approx 15 hours) trying to make brackets to work, I then threw in the towel, bought a set of AB ones and fitted and adjusted them in less than 3 hours on the driveway with two people. They have not worked loose or anything in 5000+ miles and I wish I had just bought them in the first place.

You may save more money but it is worth balancing up your cost and time value and skinned knuckles.

[mizliz]

I have every thing ready to install the Isuzu cables this w/end, but, in case I get frustrated with them, where do I get AP cables and any idea what they cost?

[Fubar1764]

Ray,
I picked up mine from a gent here by the name of WillB. Sterling man if there ever were! He's currently on holiday. I'll drop him a line to have him check this thread. The price on them was 250 Sterling. Not cheap, but then again, nothing this well designed and constructed ever is.
Cheers!
Jack

[mizliz]

Thanks, Ray, much appreciated. I wish I had gone that route in the first place; it would have been worth it!
I'll let you know how the Isuzu cable thing works out, Ken

[JLSELAN]

Thanks, Ray, much appreciated. I wish I had gone that route in the first place; it would have been worth it!
I'll let you know how the Isuzu cable thing works out, Ken

I certainly hope the Isuzu cables do work out for you because they are more likely to remain trouble free than the originals. As for the mounting hole modification mentioned in my write-up, the safest thing to do would be to mill the outer mounting hole in an arc around the inner hole so that rotation could be accommodated in either the clockwise or anti-clockwise direction. In reality, only a few degrees of rotation are needed to optimize cable alignment.
Cheers, Joel

[mizliz]

Happy to say that the isuzu cables went in with no problems after milling the new bracket. I'll let you all know if they don't last another 24 years!
Thanks for all the help, Ken

[Fubar1764]

Congratulations, Ken!
Happy Elaning!