"The Green Monster"

[nitroman]

Now that's the way to go! Great job taking the "fit" to the limit. Hope all the engine-control do-dads do justice to your excellent choice of turbo. You are giving the Elan a shot of current-technology. Hopefully the ball-bearing design will allow for the best of both worlds (high & low-RPM response). Will be watching this to see how it turns out.

[Houdini]

Costas wrote:

About the down pipe, I noticed that the diameter of it remains the same at all the length of it (or am I wrong?).

You ar correct my friend.

When I originally did the downpipe I made it myself out of aluminum and made sure the entire pipe was was one diameter start to finish. The only difference between the stainless downpipe and the aluminum one is the stainless is 2 1/2 inch diameter and the Aluminum was 3 inch. I'm glad I did the 3 inch first because if that would clear and work then the 2 1/2 would fit easier. The fabricator that did the downpipe does fabrication work on all the turbo kits and other projects at work and knows how to do smooth flowing downpipes and transitions. He took a long time doing it but when he finished, it fit correctly the very first time. He takes pride in that and we appreciate him very much for his talents. I told him what I wanted, he listened, and delivered. It was 2 monthes later but I'm not complaining.

I'll take a few pictures this weekend of the final install before it goes to the muffler shop. After it's all tuned I look forward to detailing and powder coating/jet hot coating certain items to enhance the engine bay experience.

I will (75%) sure be upgrading the turbo and doing flow work after this one is running. before I do that I want to put Brian's brakes on, put on the new GAZ shocks, corner balance and maybe upgrade a couple of things in the suspension I've been thinking about (details later). I really want to get this car out on the track and have some fun and learn something about FrontWD high performance driving. I have never driven a FrontWD car on the track and I'm sure it will be a real learning experience.

Some day I'd love to do some interior upgrades and take care of all the little paint issues but that's way down the road. I'm not sure where this car will take me, but them who cares. It's all part of the fun isn't it?

Later, Russ

[Doc Fizzix]

Ok, maybe there is something wrong with me but you new avitar looks a little like some late night action

[Dave M]

Ok, maybe there is something wrong with me but you new avitar looks a little like some late night action

Well, we've determined there's something wrong with you Doc! But you're right. We don't want that avatar getting near the bouncy fun of Timmo's.

[Doug]

Ok, maybe there is something wrong with me but you new avitar looks a little like some late night action

Well, we've determined there's something wrong with you Doc! But you're right. We don't want that avatar getting near the bouncy fun of Timmo's.

great, now you've given those Photoshop guys something to do . . .

[Doc Fizzix]

great, now you've given those Photoshop guys something to do . . .

Just for Dave and Doug

Try to keep your thoughts out of the gutter

[Dave M]

Ok, maybe there is something wrong with me...

I rest my case.

But that is pretty darn funny.

OK...back to the Wild World of Russ! Sorry, dude.

[Houdini]

I have to admit that is damn funny! Do I have to pay with a credit card to keep watching that?

Back to some sort off reality, although there is no way I can concentrate anymore after watching the show for 10 minutes or so.

I ran the car again for another hour this morning just to make sure everyhting is still running fine. My apointment at the muffler shop is the 15th so I plan on driving the car to work on the 16th. A few pictures showing the engine compartment, underside with the makeshift oil drain and new downpipe in place. I sent Turbodog under the car to look for any leaks and she came back dry, but in a hurry to get away from the exhaust.

[Dave M]

Well, I hope I'm as lucky with drips as my drain may look about the same! How is the drain connected to the turbo? Does it just have a flared end with a 1/2 NPT screw-in piece? Did you use any gasket-maker-type material for your connections? I was reading that Hondabond HT is the stuff to use. Found the Yamaha equivalent and plan to put all my oil connections together with it.

[Houdini]

I used the ATP flanged connector with 1/2' NPT without sealant. Then used 5/8" hose from Baker with 2 pieces of aluminum tube cut to length. I'll more than likely replace everything at some point with a custom bent tube. But I won't worry about it unless starts to leak. It's more important to get it on the road at this point and then start detailing everything. The drain is really the only thing that worries me at the point but it's held up to about 1 1/2 hours of run time so far. I'll keep my fingures crossed.

[nitroman]

I'm like Dave, I've learned what works and I view any work I've done that I have to go back & redo a failure. The more inaccessible the component the more overkill I put into its installation. We can all make more money, but we can't make more time; and whenever possible I don't want anyone else even touching my car. There is only one mechanic I really trust with it, and he only did such a nice job cuz he would show my car off to his (apprentice) son & others who came into his shop. He told me, "For anyone else I would not wipe a car off after my work."

[Houdini]

Well the exhaust is going on today! I'm going with Magnaflow on the high flow cat and the muffler. I'm going with Aluminized pipes for 2 reasons. One is the cost of SS and the other is the cost of SS. This is a budget project and after doing some research I will have a slight penalty when it comes to weight, but no penalty in the performance. Hope it turns out as good as I would like.

As far as tuning goes well I've picked the best shop in our area that knows Haltech and does great tuning. My appointment is for March 4th so I should be able to report back on the 5th as to what was acoomplished. http://www.danzioperformance.com/

I have decided to go with AutoMeter Z-series gauges for the car because the custom gauges I wanted were going to be too expensive. The volt and oil pressure gauges will be here Friday and the Boost gauge is back ordered but should be here soon. They are black faces with white letters and black rings. Keeping the stock look as close as I can.

RC injectors (550cc) will be picked up next week. Another discount as I hired one of Russ Collins old employees as a Design Engineer last year when he graduated with his BSME, so he said he would give me a break on the price.

When finished with the tuning I'll give a brief accounting to the costs involved for the project to date.

[nitroman]

It looks like you got your exhaust manifold bead-blasted back to a raw cast-iron look. Did you ever consider having it Jet-Hot coated both so it won't rust again and also to keep the engine bay temps cooler? I think Dave-M had his coated.

One other thing: the left-most nut holding on the manifold is really hard to get to cuz the PAS pump-bracket is in the way. How did you gain access to that nut?

[Houdini]

It looks like you got your exhaust manifold bead-blasted back to a raw cast-iron look. Did you ever consider having it Jet-Hot coated both so it won't rust again and also to keep the engine bay temps cooler? I think Dave-M had his coated.

I have a second manifold that will will get coated in the future. The plan is at some point to remove the existing set-up and redo the head as well as do porting, etc. It also involves a new turbo upgrade at the same time. I would have done all that to this setup but I wanted to get it on the road, do some track time etc. so looks were not my number one priority.

One other thing: the left-most nut holding on the manifold is really hard to get to cuz the PAS pump-bracket is in the way. How did you gain access to that nut?

That's the hardest nut. I loosened the PS pump belt, removed the bolt holding the PS bracket to the head and moved everything out of the way. At that point it was very easy. Another trick so you don't have to remove the studs is to remove the actuator bracket from the turbo and let the whole assembly drop. You'll find enough room at that point to slip the manifold and turbo assembly off the studs without removing any studs. To make it easier still unbolt the downpipe from the turbo or at least get it loose and you'll be able to remove it first and then the manifold turbo assembly. I was supprised at how quickly everything came apart, it just took awhile to assemble everyhting the right way.

[Houdini]

Okay, back from the muffler shop and it sounds great. Looks good from the back (pictures later) but I'm not crazy about the quality of the installation. Brian don't go there you'll be disappointed. I paid my money and I'm stuck with what I have so I won't complain. I'm sure it will perform fine, but I won't be showing it off at any car shows. I can justify it by telling myself and you that this is not a show car, but a drive it everyday fun car. If my car ever does get to a point where it's a show car then I'll clean it up with a perfect system. Still it is a full 2 1/2 inch system with a free flow cat and muffler that sounds great and I'm sure will make a big improvement in performance.


The bottom line is I get to drive it to work tomorrow!

[F1 LOTUS]

Good news you've got a runner again, frustrating that the shop has done an average job though Hope the ride to work and the acceleration puts this to the back of your mind

[Dave M]

The bottom line is I get to drive it to work tomorrow!

[Houdini]

Okay,

When the exhaust system was installed they burned through the fuel feed, fuel return, and 2 vapor lines. A settlement was reached yesterday and I have the money from the shop. Dave Bean is sending my the new lines, and a new fuel filter which I should have tomorow or Thursday at the latest. RC injectors are being picked up this afternoon after work so I will have a completely new fuel system minus the tank by the end of the weekend if all goes according to plan.

Kingsbone wires arrived last night and were installed along with new plugs, a new O2 sensor, and the 3 bar MAP sensor. Started the car and everything ran fine. New MSD coils have been on order but are backordered for now. I'll install them later.

I removed the old transducer for the boost gauge and I'm remote mounting the new transducer fot the AutoMeter oil pressure gauge in the same location. That way I can use the existing wire from the old boost gauge and connect it on the oil pressure gauge. Next I'll run a braided line from a tee off the turbo oil feed line to the remote mounted transducer. This way the oil light will still work as the trasducer will remain where it is. Lastely the boost gauge is a little late, and the tracking info shows it getting here on Thursday. Our instrumentation group said they would do an adapter for me from the vacuum line to the supplied line that comes with the boost gauge.

Whats left after that? Well start the car, check the base timing, check for any leaks, take for a test drive without boost to make sure there no problems, and/or check engine lights. Finally hope I make it the appointment to have the Haltech installed and the car tuned on March 7th.

After tuning I finally get to put on Brian's incredable Wilwood brakes and install the GAZ shocks.

[F1 LOTUS]

Okay,

When the exhaust system was installed they burned through the fuel feed, fuel return, and 2 vapor lines.

Why oh why oh why is it SO difficult to get anything done properly these days!!! (Unless you live in Greece possibly )

[nitroman]

Houdini, Accel makes exactly the same coils. They are yellow instead of red and should look better on your car. They are a direct competitor and the stats are so similar to MSD it makes no difference which you buy. Some of the top Isuzu guys are running Accels.

If you can't find MSD get these instead.