Respray guidance

[Ultimatt]

Hi all,

I'm organising a respray for my well-blistered, pink-toned Elan.

Just wondered if there is anything i should be aware of as regards special considerations with painting fibreglass. Fibreglass is obviously rarely used on cars and I want to make sure that the contact I have is aware of any special treatment that may be required.

I will obviously ask him in person, but it's been known for tradesmen to blag experience in the past

Thanks,

Matt

[Paul.P]

Matt, my advise is if you want a good respray, go to a proper bodyshop & be prepared to pay , or you will get a cheap one you won't be happy with !

[johnbenk]

Hi

It is not the spraying that is the problem is the "prep" work that takes the time.

With the top coat being a "clear over base" as it is called in the trade the substrate (trade name for the item you are spraying) has to have a FLAT FINISH. To acheive this the Clear Coat has to be "scotched off" without cutting through to the paint coat underneath.

If you CUT TO DEEP you may go through to the GEL COAT.

The best Product for the Elan is FARECLA G3 advanced liquid compound
applied by hand. After the Gloss has a dull finish you need to apply a "black powder". THIS IS CALED A GUIDE COAT which is applied from a tin with a damp sponge.

When applied the powder used in the trade shows "swirl marks and scratches" not seen by the eye. Your aim is to get a smooth flat surface.

When satisfied that the surface to be sprayed is ok to receive the paint
the first coat should be an etching primer to "bite into the the original substrate. When this has "flashed off" if the finish is good enough straight from the gun. you could go on to the Colour Coat.

This COULD BE WATER BASED and then a 2 pack clear to finish.

Try to AVOID WATERBASED COLOUR COAT. You best advice is to go for
a 2 PACK paint. This can then be "buffed" after the paint has dried to a gloss finish.

The front and rear bumper are made from a prim composite and should be sprayed on a "STAND" with a flex agent added to the paint.

When the paint is applied at "hand span width" to these parts the skilled
painter SHOULD NOT HAND ARC at the end of the GUN PASS.

What he should do is "HIT" the substrate (the bumper) FLAT so that the paint lays even across the curvers.

If sprayed on a STAND you can "drop coat" the top coat in a even finish.

The spray pattern using a vertical fan setting (see picture of hood cover being sprayed) will cover the area with PAINT that usually gets STONE CHIPS. By using a "Flex Agent" you will not stop stone chips but the paint has some flex which in theory should help stone chips not break through
to the "Paint" but just break the clear coat. This you could "touch up" with
clear coat.

JBK

[rob]

Hi

It is not the spraying that is the problem is the "prep" work that takes the time.

With the top coat being a "clear over base" as it is called in the trade the substrate (trade name for the item you are spraying) has to have a FLAT FINISH. To acheive this the Clear Coat has to be "scotched off" without cutting through to the paint coat underneath.

If you CUT TO DEEP you may go through to the GEL COAT.

The best Product for the Elan is FARECLA G3 advanced liquid compound
applied by hand. After the Gloss has a dull finish you need to apply a "black powder". THIS IS CALED A GUIDE COAT which is applied from a tin with a damp sponge.

When applied the powder used in the trade shows "swirl marks and scratches" not seen by the eye. Your aim is to get a smooth flat surface.

When satisfied that the surface to be sprayed is ok to receive the paint
the first coat should be an etching primer to "bite into the the original substrate. When this has "flashed off" if the finish is good enough straight from the gun. you could go on to the Colour Coat.

This COULD BE WATER BASED and then a 2 pack clear to finish.

Try to AVOID WATERBASED COLOUR COAT. You best advice is to go for
a 2 PACK paint. This can then be "buffed" after the paint has dried to a gloss finish.

The front and rear bumper are made from a prim composite and should be sprayed on a "STAND" with a flex agent added to the paint.

When the paint is applied at "hand span width" to these parts the skilled
painter SHOULD NOT HAND ARC at the end of the GUN PASS.

What he should do is "HIT" the substrate (the bumper) FLAT so that the paint lays even across the curvers.

If sprayed on a STAND you can "drop coat" the top coat in a even finish.

The spray pattern using a vertical fan setting (see picture of hood cover being sprayed) will cover the area with PAINT that usually gets STONE CHIPS. By using a "Flex Agent" you will not stop stone chips but the paint has some flex which in theory should help stone chips not break through
to the "Paint" but just break the clear coat. This you could "touch up" with
clear coat.

JBK

but



thought i was technical

and in English this means what , pop down to Halfords any get a can off spray paint

[Paul.P]

I still think with spraying you get what you pay for. A proper job should be costing you around the 2k mark, & a concours probably 3k.

[Ultimatt]

My 'contact' is a bona fide body shop. Recommended to me by a mechanic friend, so I'm hoping they'll do some 'mates-rates'.

Thanks for the technical run-down John... you lost me a bit back there ;o) Suffice to say my Elan is working on doing all the prep work itself. The lacquer coat (sorry, I'm sure that's not trade talk) has already removed itself from most of the boot lid and spoiler and is now working it's way over the doors and the rear flanks. Hence the dire need for a respray.

How long would you expect to need to leave your car with a body shop to do an A1 job? 1, maybe 2 weeks?

I suppose my only concern is regarding the special considerations for the fibreglass shell. I.e. I am sure the body shop is well experienced with your everyday steel bodied car, but should I be asking specific questions of there knowledge / experience with fibreglass? Or, is it pretty much the same process?

Matt

[Ultimatt]

Also, I'm still torn between a modern paint finish, maintaining the original red... or, as mentioned on a previous post... my Team Lotus two-tone project.

Any thoughts? See below for photoshopped illustrations.

Matt

[Paul.P]

I think that looks really good Matt, it will be a very individual car. There is another one thats done that, been on ebay recently, but it wasn't done very well.

[pjohn151]

I'm with Paul on this - it would look really good if you do it as per pictures.

What other Lotus Racing liveries are left to do? The yellow Camel one?

Phil

[algirdas]

Dear All:

After Donington I have begun to take Mesdame Stef's admonitions quite seriously that I should consider repainting my entire pinking and blistering red Elan rather than just the panels with the clearcoat issues.

Question: How much should I plan on disassembling the car for the painters? Should I take out the headlight pods? Take off the bumper caps? Badges? Seals?

If I am going to do this, then by all means I want it done correctly. All comments are welcomed and remember, not only am I a newbie, but I am a blithering idiot when it comes to paint and paint work.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[algirdas]

Dear Mr. Benk:

When satisfied that the surface to be sprayed is ok to receive the paint
the first coat should be an etching primer to "bite into the the original substrate. When this has "flashed off" if the finish is good enough straight from the gun. you could go on to the Colour Coat.

This COULD BE WATER BASED and then a 2 pack clear to finish.

Try to AVOID WATERBASED COLOUR COAT. You best advice is to go for
a 2 PACK paint. This can then be "buffed" after the paint has dried to a gloss finish.

In reading your post, I'm a bit confused. Shouldn't the last paragraph, first sentence read "Try to AVOID WATERBASED CLEAR COAT."?

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[theelanman]

guys
lotus actually did a camel racing yellow elan.....I thought it was a scam that someone had tried pulling on a fried of mine......just to 'big it up'!!!
turns out that when I parked next to him in my norfolk mustard his was a completely different colour......
they both look really good but I prefer the norfolk mustard.....well I would...Ive got one!!!!
lol
G

[Monty]

Dear All:

After Donington I have begun to take Mesdame Stef's admonitions quite seriously that I should consider repainting my entire pinking and blistering red Elan rather than just the panels with the clearcoat issues.

Question: How much should I plan on disassembling the car for the painters? Should I take out the headlight pods? Take off the bumper caps? Badges? Seals?

If I am going to do this, then by all means I want it done correctly. All comments are welcomed and remember, not only am I a newbie, but I am a blithering idiot when it comes to paint and paint work.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

Algirdas (whats u`r 1st name again LOL)

I would take of as much as u can to keep cost down
ie

rear bumper
front spoiler and indicator lens
rear spoiler/tail
door mirrors
light pods
rear lights
glass door seal
all badges
side indicators
door locks
ariel

[algirdas]

Dear All:

For the record, "Algirdas" IS my first name. "Mykolas" is my second name and "Liepas" is my last name.

And "yes" my parents were sober at the time I was named and "no" they had not lost any bets.

My name is not a typo.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Monty]

LMAO



it was me who ask what u`r 1st name at Donny thats why i put that above to see if u remembered. Do they call u Al for short?

let us know how u get on with the respray.

[algirdas]

Dear Monty:

Ok, I'm an idiot. And your memory is better than mine. Who are you? I met so many people from the club that, coupled with tequila and jet lag, I just can't keep them all straight.

Also, what does "LMAO" mean? I'm not a GenX-er and this whole electronic age thing has me a bit shocked.

And "yes" many people do call me "Al". Others call me "Algis". Others call me "Bambyzas". Feel free to use the one with which you are most comfortable.

Sincerely,

Algirdas aka Algis aka Al aka Bambyzas

[Monty]

Al,

was on the LEC stand with u on saturay at Donny LOL

LMAO = laughing my ass off

[algirdas]

Dear Monty:

On the stand with me Saturday? Great! That narrows it down to 30 or so blurred images.

I'll PM you since we are getting off topic and I do not wish to again incur the wrath of Sy. Last time I did that it cost me a bottle of pretty decent tequila (no worm) in order to smooth things over with the right honourable gentleman. Plus having to schlep it across the Atlantic to deliver it in person to the fount of all things M100 as atonement for my transgression.

I'm just glad I didn't get hit up for a kidney.

Sincerely,

Algirdas

[Sy V]

...and very much appreciated it was too. Al.

Sy (who I think was the first person to ask the name question at Donington).

P.S. "Dear Monty: ...Who are you?..." Love it!

[Rambo]

lotus actually did a camel racing yellow Elan.....I thought it was a scam that someone had tried pulling on a fried of mine......just to 'big it up'!!!

Slightly off topic but here it is

Good write up JB - very informative and technical but easy to understand.

Mark