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by NickHawk » Tue 02.05.2006, 20:23
Hi
Any advice on the following. Under the left headlamp is a valve for releasing air from the cooling system. Mine is now in 2 pieces as it simply sheered when I went to loosen it off. Half of the plug is still in the radiator and coolant is now ozzing from what is left in the hole. Any suggestions on how I can bung this up as a tempoary measure.
Thanks
Nick
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by muley » Tue 02.05.2006, 21:58
Get the hole and remnants clean and dry (degrease with a little meths) then apply a generous dollop of Araldite - the old slow drying two pack type. Let it cure for 24 hours.
This bodge works fine on my drain plug.
HTH
Jim
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by Monty » Tue 02.05.2006, 22:17
muley wrote:Get the hole and remnants clean and dry (degrease with a little meths) then apply a generous dollop of Araldite - the old slow drying two pack type. Let it cure for 24 hours.
This bodge works fine on my drain plug.
HTH
Jim
I wouldn`t do the above as this would render it useless and u`ll need this to help bleed the system. See if u can order one from lotus and remove the broken part, but until then u`r car is off road unless someone knows what other vechile it fits.
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by Doug » Wed 03.05.2006, 00:00
I don't have that bleed valve (USA Elan) but know of it.
It may help to undo the headlight pushrod so you can manually lift the headlight way up on its hinge and then use something like a fine chisel to make a linear score mark in the plastic (is it a plastic bolt like the radiator drain plug). If this works you can use the chisel or a flat screwdriver to turn it out. If not maybe you can use the chisel to tap the radius of it and slowly turn it. Be careful not to damage the plastic threads though!
Also you might as well buy a replacement radiator drain valve (if you have one?? not sure if SEs do) which is the same crap plastic--mine broke on me and it has happened to others.
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by Andy C » Wed 03.05.2006, 01:16
I am replacing my lower drain plug atm it had similar issues as what you described ... I removed my radiator to do it, which is real easy and only took an hour or so. However ... my top air bleed valve is made of brass, and has a brass sleeve in the thread. Is this an S2 thing? .. or has mine been changed at some stage?
Andrew
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by chrisP » Wed 03.05.2006, 15:14
SJ Had stock when I ordered mine last week, cost about £8 if I remember correctly
Chris
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by Oliver » Wed 03.05.2006, 18:15
Mine did the same:
The drain plug`s not listed separately in the parts book, but i found the part number.
A100K0111S
£8.12+ vat !!!!
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by Dico » Wed 03.05.2006, 21:38
Drain plug - Bleed screw = two seperate items?
4+ hours stuck in a damp bucket seat with a mad Irishman at the wheel - Deep joy!!!!
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by NickHawk » Thu 04.05.2006, 12:17
Thanks for the advice - bodged it (but V carefully) for the time being with Araldite. It worked enough for me to drive it to the Hen & Chickens for my first Loutus Souther Area meeting.
Nick
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by Oliver » Thu 04.05.2006, 21:06
Dico wrote:Drain plug - Bleed screw = two seperate items?
Sorry, i meant bleed screw, they are the same part anyhow.
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by Dico » Fri 05.05.2006, 14:44
Oliver wrote:Dico wrote:Drain plug - Bleed screw = two seperate items?
Sorry, i meant bleed screw, they are the same part anyhow.
No i genuinley meant are they two seperate things??
I know where the bleed screw is, but a lot of folk mention drain plug.

4+ hours stuck in a damp bucket seat with a mad Irishman at the wheel - Deep joy!!!!
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by Oliver » Fri 05.05.2006, 18:25
I think only USA cars have a drain plug, over here you just drop the bottom hose off.
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by Lancelot » Mon 15.05.2006, 07:59
So having just sheared mine and about to order a new one from SJ, how do you actually replace it ? Is it a radiator out job or can it be done in situ.
I've unscrewd the valve fully but it does not appear to want to pull out completly.Mines an S2 with plastic bleed valve.
Woody
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by M100 TWO » Mon 15.05.2006, 08:45
Lancelot there is a threaded bit on the end so it unscrews to remove
john
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by Lancelot » Mon 15.05.2006, 09:33
Thanks John,
The reason I opened the bleed valve was because after changing the coolant and hoses, and running the engine for a while I noticed a small leak from the electric coolant fan, and assummed that an airlock was causing the problem.Has anyone else experienced the same problem after changing coolant,and does it mean a new pump.
Woody
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by M100 TWO » Mon 15.05.2006, 10:42
have you disturbed the hoses on the pump if so double check for leaks otherwise it is a new pump you could bypass the pump if leak is bad using a piece of pipe untill a new pump can be fitted the pump will only work when the fans are running and you turn off the ignition new coolant does have a creeping affect
Don't try to defie the law of physics! here endeth the first lesson
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by Lancelot » Tue 16.05.2006, 12:49
Thanks John,
Checked the hoses are ok,so ordered a new pump(£96 inc vat & delivery) from Marine Megastore.Should be up and running for weekend.
Cheers,
Woody
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