BBR Phase One kit

[Capman]

Can anybody give me a rundown as to how the BBR kit modifies the stock turbo installation. I have just bought the car and would like an idea of what modifications have been made.

Kit detail: Phase One, boost level 14 PSI, 0.94 Bar.

Any feed back would be greatly appreciated.

[muley]

Can anybody give me a rundown as to how the BBR kit modifies the stock turbo installation. I have just bought the car and would like an idea of what modifications have been made.

Kit detail: Phase One, boost level 14 PSI, 0.94 Bar.

Any feed back would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a copy of the installation instructions, if that helps. Basically it bypasses the boost control valve (by disconnecting it) and bypasses the fuel cut out circuit. Phenominally crude and expensive for what it is.

Jim B

[Capman]

Thanks Muley,
Sorry for the late response, I’ve been away this weekend. Excellent document, which fills in all the blanks. The mods are incredibly simple and quite crude but has an awesome effect. This mod seems to receive bad press is this due to it's simplicity or is it unreliable / problematic?

Thanks again for your feedback.

[muley]

Thanks Muley,
Sorry for the late response, I’ve been away this weekend. Excellent document, which fills in all the blanks. The mods are incredibly simple and quite crude but has an awesome effect. This mod seems to receive bad press is this due to it's simplicity or is it unreliable / problematic?

Thanks again for your feedback.

I'm not the expert on this, I just happen to have a car with it fitted and, as you say, the effect is dramatic! [The chappies in a Boxster who I soared past on an M4 slip road yesterday will readily attest to that].

My understanding of the major pitfalls of the BBR kit;

1) You loose any overboost protection - in other words you could create too much boost.
2) At higher boost levels, the fuel/air mixture becomes too weak - not good for engine longevity.

If I keep the blue Elan I will probably remove the kit and replace it with the ESM 'Everest' chip which works just like the BBR kit but retains all the protection. [My suspicion is the the BBR kit was fitted because the boost control valve broke and the garage where the previous lady owner had it serviced took the opportunity to make a quick few hundred quid.]

When funds allow I will also put an ESM chip into the black Elan.

Of course, according to the dyno results I have seen the best performance increase comes from fitting a squishless fatter exhaust, so I'll probably be up for one of those as well!

Cheers

Jim

[Capman]

Jim,
Obviously i want to prolong the life of the engine so the replacement ESM chip upgrade you are proposing seems the way forward, in respect of overboost protection I take it the boost control valve is either re connected or upgraded?

I am currently running with a Milltek exhaust, it sounds great and no doubt lets the motor breath a little easier squeezing a few more horses out of the lump.

What sort of BHP do you think we are talking with the BBR and a squishless fatter exhaust...200 BHP?

Cheers Jim,

Craig.

[Nige]

What sort of BHP do you think we are talking with the BBR and a squishless fatter exhaust...200 BHP?

I would say at least 200BHP if all else is as it should be (particularly base timing set to 16 deg BTDC, do a search or look on the main page Ithink there's a write up). Anywhere between 200-215 BHP at the flywheel (a calculated figure from a reading at the wheels) is in the right area for an Elan with an ESM chip and a bigger exhaust (at least 2.25"). The BBR kit, if it really is giving you .94 bar boost should be in the same area.

I have nothing against the BBR kit, but with the availability of the chip this is certainly my preferred option as it maintains all of the engine management safety features. If you were to fit a chip you MUST reconnect the boost solenoid valve (after removing the BBR plug thing) and disconnect the fuel cut defeater on the rear panel of the engine bay. [/u]

[muley]

Jim

[nitroman]

Horse Power ratings
(Interesting, I thought, and yet no actual LEC category!)
When the USA went to war in December 1941 there were very quickly some major changes in philosophy. Aircraft engines were re-rated on fuel of much higher anti-knock value to give considerably more power. Perhaps the most outstanding example was the great R-2800 Double Wasp, which went into production in 1940 for the B-26 Marauder at 1,850 hp and by 1944 was in service in late model P-47 Thunderbolts (and other aircraft) at a rating of 2,800 hp on 115-grade fuel with water injection. Of course, all engines naturally grow in power with development, but a major war demands the utmost performance from engines fitted to aircraft whose life in front-line service was unlikely to exceed 50 hours' flying, over a period of only a month or two.
In peace time the call was for reliability over a period of perhaps a dozen years. And of course a pilot in combat has no time to fiddle endlessly with a fistful of engine controls in order to maintain the optimum engine operating conditions, and bearing in mind the rate at which aircrew had to be produced in wartime he probably did not have the knowledge of how to do this either.

[pete_exe]

I'm in the same position as Craig (Capman). Bought a non-runner and suspect the problem is with EEPROM chip/ECU, or with fitted BBR phase 1 kit.

"Here's a copy of the installation instructions, if that helps. Basically it bypasses the boost control valve (by disconnecting it) and bypasses the fuel cut out circuit. Phenominally crude and expensive for what it is. "

I want to remove the kit but can't access Jim's docuent ("You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post"). ACn moderator give me access, or can you repost?

Thanks Pete, Exeter

[pete_exe]

Oh I can see it now, thanks anyway. Pete