Fault Code 42

[paza1]

Can anyone help with this? During 'spirited' driving run, engine management light comes on, engine dies. Can't restart (can hear normal fuel pump noise). Wait 5 mins restarts ok. Runs for 5 mins with lack of power, revs up to around 3000 ish, light on, engine dies . Wait 5 mins, engine starts, keeps revs low and runs but feels low powered. Paperclip reveals 42. Suspect HT problem. Leads seem to be connected to the plugs ok. Any thoughts?
Cheers
Mark

[paza1]

Plugs look ok (ngk), no discolouring, no damage....

[DeanG]

Could be ignition module, ECM, wiring... you need to get your hands on a manual. The tests can be made with a volt meter.

Wish I could be of more help

[paza1]

Have read somewhere that Code 42 could implicate CAS. I am now in process of trying the repair to the HES. Excellent write up here http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/cas.htm
Cheers
Mark

[paza1]

DeanG, Thanks for the prod in the right direction. The manual flowchart mostly seems to point to the Ignition Module although a dodgy connection or bad ECM are possible. I still think the HES could be the culprit though.
Mark

[paza1]

Removed HES, followed instructions, refitted, test drive, same result i.e. once warm, givin it large, engine light came on and lost all power. Let engine cool for 10 mins then fired up into life. (kept revs low to get home). Checked for code (thinking 42 again) BUT NO CODE
Must follow the Flowchart next.
Any thoughts/advice appreciated
Mark

[paza1]

Any tips on how to remove the ECU connectors without breaking the f*****g things?
Cheers
Mark

[paza1]

....(with ALDL connected) let the car warm up and gave it some revs over 3000rpm. No indication of boost on gauge. My question is, would the turbo not operating correctly (sticking waste gate?) cause the engine to cut out and not leave a code during high rev run? (checked connections on boost transducer and are on tight).
Being a novice mechanic, any help appreciated
Mark

[paza1]

Could someone have a look please? Not sure if I have logged correctly. It wasn't a run but I gave it some revs when warm.
Advice welcome
Cheers
Mark

[dans]

The hot run doesn't look like it has logged correctly. Possibly ElanScan is in Test Mode?

The cold run looks like it has worked ok. Though, as you said, no fault codes are showing!

Hope someone else who knows a bit more can look in detail.

Are you not getting any CEL at all now then?

Dan

[GeoffSmith]

The hot run doesn't look like it has logged correctly. Possibly ElanScan is in Test Mode?

The cold run looks like it has worked ok. Though, as you said, no fault codes are showing!

I agree!

I can't see anything obviously wrong Mark, but I am still a novice at this. You might just have to try another 'spirited' run while logging to try to reproduce fault. Make sure the "Test Mode" option (under Setup) is not checked however.

Geoff

[paza1]

Thanks for looking guys.
No CEL at the moment. However, I am now suspicious that my wastegate is sticking or the boost gauge transducer is not working or the boost gauge is duff. Managed to move the actuator arm about 5mm left to expose some shiny metal but couldn't move it right at all
If the wastegate was sticking, would this cause the engine to cut out, restart ok after 10 mins and leave no code in the ECU
Very frustrating
Cheers
Mark

[dans]

I think if you can run the car enough to to get an elanscan with the car in motion then you can see what the boost is doing.
I think the transducer in the engine bay is just for the dash gauge so you may want to check that the pipe is still on it or that the electrical connections are still both on there, as both are prone to coming off!

Dan

[paza1]

Just been for a spin. Unfortunately not with Elanscan due to dodgey laptop batteries. Good result anyhow. Boosting ok. Didn't cut out. All is well....but what caused initial cut out (x2). Since the last cut out, I have:
Cleaned up the ignition leads (v dirty under coolant expansion tank)
Disconnected, cleaned & reconnected the leads at the coil
Cleaned up the coil pack
Checked the wiring in that area
Replaced famous bung seal by CAS and thoroughly cleaned the connections and the area in general.
Removed ECU connectors to access them then refitted.
Attempted the wastegate wiggle

My next move should be to get Elanscan going and give it a run, as suggested.
How likely is it that I have solved the problem

PS Does boost come in when revving when stationery?

Cheers
Mark

[paza1]

Update. Have driven nearly 300 miles (Donington and back, plus local) with no recurrance. Might be fixed Could have been poor lead connections on the coil. If it happens again though, I will replace the coil.
Mark

[Specky]

Took the car for a spin today and...

It did that judder/splutter thing again...

This time I got a CEL light.... a code 42...

I've got a new moded HES in the Bitz box, but it didn't seem to sort out Pazcal..

I've got new leads on order from USA.. (A few weeks wait)

so a few questions if I may...

Has anyone ordered any coils resently from the UK?

Has any one got ElanScan Oxford/high Wycombe way... if the need arises?

Is there anything I can check in the mean time? (please state the obvious I may of over looked it)

How do you remove the coils from the base plate?

If I remove them, would I expect corrosion between the two?

TTFN

[paza1]

Dave,
Once the coil "module" is off the car it is obvious how to split the coils from the baseplate (IIRC 2 quite long small headed bolts per coil)... check for dampness, generally clean up with a clean cloth. Clean up the coil connections and leads while your in there.
A no cost exercise so nowt to loose and just might help (did for me).
Good luck
Mark
PS Take care to fit the insulating washer correctly when reassembling. It has been mentioned elsewhere

[paza1]

Have you tried a new HES? If not, you could try the HES repair (if you can use a soldering iron). Again, no cost and might help, its in the repairs section.
Pazcal?? have I missed something??
Spark plugs look OK?
Leads clean?
Mark

[Specky]

Have you tried a new HES? If not, you could try the HES repair (if you can use a soldering iron). Again, no cost and might help, its in the repairs section.
Pazcal?? have I missed something??
Spark plugs look OK?
Leads clean?
Mark

Haven't put the new HES in yet...

New plugs about a month ago... just going out... I'll pull em..

Leads have suffered slight chaffing where they have been in the plastic clips.. Nothing major..(Radio is a nightmare on MW/LW.. football results)..

Hence I've got them on order..

I'll check for corrosion spark plug end..

I'll update later...

TTFN

[Specky]

Checked the plugs.. gapped correct-ish..0.8mm (champion plugs)

slight carbon deposit on screw threads..(nothing untoward)

Leads have no corrosion...

Cam shaft oil seal gone... The HES was covered in oil..

HES is the old style and totally sealed..

The new one looks poor quality... Not sealed at all...

Tonights work has come to end..It's dark..

in the next few days I'll continue..

Stupid question time..

This might get a bit indepth so be careful...

Reference the fitting of a new HES...

When the wirley girlie metal bit that goes through the HES is there a set gap..or is it evenly spaced..

Also can you quickly remove the HES wire.. or do you have to crimp it in situ?

and finally how do you do the blank camshaft oil seal easily?

Geoff where did you get your seals from?

TTFN