Wastegate operation.

[paulwatkins]

Hi guys,
Just a few questions if I may.....
1. Does anyone have the equipment needed to check the operation of the wastegate valve assembly that they could loan me? As per the procedure on page 61, section EC of the service manual.
2. If not, how much travel should there be on the connecting rod? How far does the flap valve need to open?
3. With the capsule pressure hose disconnected, should it be quite easy to move the rod back and fore by hand? Or does it require more pressure than this?
4. What would be the symptoms of this assembly being seized up? Overboost leading to fuel cut off?

I was cleaning the turbo assembly up yesterday and I am almost certain that this rod was seized. I soaked it in WD for a while, and now, there is a small movement, but still sticks at open position (just a few mm) until I return it to closed position. Should the movement return to closed position on its own?

Any advice, as always, HUGELY appreciated
Paul

[Enright]

I remember there only being about 5mm of travel on the connecting rod, and it took quite a bit of force to overcome the spring pressure.

When it was on the car (rather than on the bench), I found that I had to attach mole-grips right next to the diaphragm housing and lever them against it to achieve any movement.

[GeoffSmith]

Check out the Wastegate wiggle thread Paul. I stick by my method of removing the actuator which then allows you to operate the wastegate from fully closed to fully open; I noticed some notchiness in mine which disappeared after a bit a wiggling. The only downside is that the two bottom bolts of the actuator are an absolute bitch to get back on unless you're 11 years old.

Geoff

PS How are things going otherwise?

[paulwatkins]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Geoff, the turbo assembly is actually sitting on my workbench in my workshop (well, its a B&Q workmate thing in my single car garage!) and I can remember looking at the fixing bolts that you mention - which are easily accessible with it out of the car. I will try your method tomorrow night. I've left it doused in WD40 for the time being.

The project is going well at the moment. I've been doing a lot of cleaning of pipework and components and should look good once its all back together. I was amazed how well the turbo guards came up with a wire wheel and some metal polish!

My only concern at the moment is that the +0.5mm reboring will actually be enough to remove the damage to the cylinder wall. Only time will tell i suppose.

Cheers, Paul

[paulwatkins]

I removed the capsule and managed to free up the linkage - it sure was seized solid! - At both the capsule end and the valve end. Plenty of wd did the job to release it and now the movement is fine.

I can see what you mean about those bottom fixings though Geoff. They were difficult enough to get back in when the damn turbo assembly was on the workbench

[GeoffSmith]

Paul,

Are you planning on lubricating it with anything? There was a bit of discussion here just recently. My own feeling was to clean up as much as possible because nothing is going to last long in that heat and carbon is pretty abrasive.

Geoff

[paulwatkins]

I agree with you Geoff. It seems a bit of a pointless excercise trying to lubricate it if it is going to burn off pretty quickly.
I was lucky that i was able to remove the capsule and connecting rod and give it a good clean up on a wire wheel - which removed all the rust. I've sprayed it with wd for the time being - but when the car is running again, I'll keep an eye on it - now that I know it is problematic.