Code 15 CTS, Code 22 TPS

[Ekapol]

Recent - fun - stuff

With paperclip test, I have error code #15 and #22. So far I tried wiggling/unplugging the CTS (few times). TPS connector seems very tight I couldn't move it.

Check engine light stays always on, rev is limited to 4000 rpm. High idle around 2K like what the manual mentioned in TPS section.

Yup, running rich now. Starting to see soot around the exhaust tail pipe

TPS wires could use some re-soldering. The wires are still attached to the sensor but a bit strayed. They are not touching each other though. Can I just remove the sensor by unscrewing it. I heard about resetting the TPS if it get disconnected.

After all above, I tried disconnecting the battery and the light is still there.

Sent Elanscan log to Doug and Alan Posting here just so that we all have it documented.

Been driving like a good boy lately

[Doug]

I have corresponded with Ekapol on this and want to add some info so others can help more and not repeat it.

Please add the info I can't remember, etc . . . .

His ElanScan log shos a flat line at -40C on the CTS -- which to me says a corroded or faulty sensor. I had that in the past and originally had the CTS replaced about 6 years ago with Lotus part. It happened after that and it just needed the corrosion cleaned off the CTS and it was fine.

is there a cross-reference for the CTS to get real easily? I can't remember for sure.

Also the ElanScan log show a flat line at 100% on the TPS. I don't think his foot is that leaded so it is also a fault. No wonder the engine is limiting the revs and all.

He said he had been in the tranny cable box area so had moved the coolant tank and all and I wonder if he could have done something to sabotage the TPS accidentally then?? Never had a problem with the TPS before . . .


Now with the CTS at -40C the car will run super rich and you can foul the plugs and even the Oxygen sensor, so he need to get them fixed up ASAP . . .

[Monty]

Ekapol

Throw the Dam car back to Doug

[Ekapol]

Ekapol

Throw the Dam car back to Doug

I can see Doug's happy face reading your post

Am I supposed to see 2 wires coming out from this sensor like in all the pictures in the manual/electric diagram.

I see only one wire and it seems right that way at the connector. Sensor got negative from the thread grounding?

[Ekapol]

Tried connecting the sensor end with the connector end with a testing wire, coolant temp reading is still dead cold

[Doc Fizzix]

Throw the Dam car back to Doug

Yes, get rid of that piece of junk

Then find a well cared-for red one

[Ekapol]

Yes, get rid of that piece of junk

Then find a well cared-for red one

You guys are so funny. ROTFL!!

I might have looked at the wrong sensor. Doesn't make sense that the one I found has just one wire. The CTS actually shyly hides itself underneath the CAS's gap. Big doh moment there. Now what's up with TPS behaving badly too. Are they related?

[Ekapol]

Tested it again this morning. With the sensor connector shorted or grounded, it still read -40 degree. I suspect the connector is at fault, well corroded there.

Do I need to remove the CAS? Is there anything I need to know. I couldn't really get to the CTS. Very tight room there and the wires are very short. Appreciate your comments.

[Ekapol]

"If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all" -- Again that Albert King's tune went round and round in my head.

He said he had been in the tranny cable box area so had moved the coolant tank and all and I wonder if he could have done something to sabotage the TPS accidentally then?? Never had a problem with the TPS before . . .

Pretty sure I didn't knock anything

CTS - was all corrorded there. Soaked with WD-40 for quite some time then did micro cleaning there. This was after I rubbed into the rusty part shorted the connector and found > 150 degree from the reading. This told me that wiring to the ECM is good and my problem is on the side around the connector to the CTS sensor. I unplugged all 4 or 5 sensors that share the same cable organizer thingy. Fiddling with many connectors all in small tiny gap/hot engine is not always fun. Once you got them all cleaned up, putting them all back was even a better part All that because I didn't want to remove the CAS...

TPS - no wonder I couldn't remove the connector. With enough light from my new 6 LED flashlight, I can see that there is no connector TPS was soldered to the wires directly. Quick look at the Service Notes section EMK and the read-out from Elanscan (cool stuff, thank you ), my TPS sensor must be internally messed up. Not in the manual but generally a TPS is just a variable resistance thingy. Desoldered it, with an OHM meter, one probe on ground, another one on either red or white cable, it should show variable resistance value when you turn the throttle cable. I recall the bottom cable gives out more range of value. EMK section explains generally the same thing but with current going through TPS.

At that point I was pretty happy that TPS seemed alright. My guess is that it was internally shorted somehow since the wires look strayed but not touching each other on the outside. For those who might have to work on it, I recommend using the solder-sucker device (whatchamacallit?) to remove all the old solder, make sure you have the connectors look nice and clean. It pays to be more neat there. Once all the solder is out, you will see the each connector actually has 2 pointy metal contact area. You want to insert each cable in between the contact and use the plier to crimp them. Firstly good physical contact, secondly give it a good soldering joint. I figure this would help when thing gets so hot but you still have good physical crimping holding the wires. By that time, the other plasic parts might have already melted anyway

Elanscan then shows those number that make more sense to me, varying the value according to the throttle. Disconnected the negative terminal on the battery for 30 seconds to clear the code which actually already reset itself once I had my TPS soldered back.

It's good to have an Elan that drives again Yeah, with Dave's shortshifter now. Whoopie~~

[Doug]

Excellent work, young Jedi!

Did you record a drive to be sure it is all well again?
Enjoy the weekend sun

[Ekapol]

I should replace the connector. Couldn't find the part number for just the plug. Please let me know if you know where to get this connector.

[Ekapol]

OK I found it . IAS connector is also the same size.

CTS Connector

Get the pigtail version, $7 more. IAS with pigtail will be $4.50 more But the guy said CTS connector will have the plastic key to make the connection tighter.

[Ekapol]

But the guy said CTS connector will have the plastic key to make the connection tighter.

Edit that. Got both in the mail yesterday. The CTS connector has half-oval plastic key while the IAS connector has 2 plastic straight tabs on both side. They both are the same size.