ECU to borrow/buy

[texas2201]

If you changed it yesterday it sounds like you have an airlock and need to bleed the system.

Thought I got all the air out - good shout will check this if the rain ever stops

[texas2201]

OK this morning - can see no sign of air in the the system - test fans and return pump

put the cap back on and run it up to temp and then up to 113 (elanscan) and fans kick in as per normal - try this three times works every time??????

Elanscan keeps throwing up errors the whole time it is connected no reply, block not recieved? not written them down....will do next time. However, the figures are displaying 950 rpm idle - temp - revs - etc???

I will let it cool down and log a cold start and warm up in Elanscan and create a file

Then I will take it for a run with elanscan runnning to log the misfires and create a file of this - then zip both and post them on here

very puzzling

[texas2201]

Just did the cold start log - warm running log and after log - all in a zip

today it would not rev above 4k before misfire/backfire started - and then the EML came on and stayed on - pulled over switched off for a few minutes. Switched on and started no EML - did a scan - 300 faults !!! not sure if that is the same fault 300 times?

also Elanscan kept saying no frame start byte received
no reply
reply made doesn't match??????
help....................................................

[GeoffSmith]

It's not 300 faults but fault code 300 which points to the Cam Angle Sensor and EST

[GeoffSmith]

The CAS fault appears at about 434½s and the EST fault at about 436½s however there is a glitch in the coolant temperature reading at about 432½s and the battery volts drop between 440 and 448s.
I wonder if there is an intermittent connector or earthing issue somewhere.

[GeoffSmith]

Looking a bit deeper, the raw coolant signal drops down far too low between 432½s and 438s before recovering but the ECM interpreted temperature only has one spurious temperature - I'm not sure what is causing this.

[texas2201]

The CAS fault appears at about 434½s and the EST fault at about 436½s however there is a glitch in the coolant temperature reading at about 432½s and the battery volts drop between 440 and 448s.
I wonder if there is an intermittent connector or earthing issue somewhere.

Ah code 300 - makes more sense

EST?

The fan belt is not tight enough - keeps squealing....but been too wet to tighten it

Any idea where I go from here Geoff?

[GeoffSmith]

Your knock count also appears to be going up whenever you have a period of boost. Maybe your base timing needs retarding.

[GeoffSmith]

EST = Electronic Spark Timing.

[texas2201]

when you say a problem with the CAS is this likely to be the Hall effect sensor?

[texas2201]

EST = Electronic Spark Timing.

what component controls that?

[GeoffSmith]

The EST is the plate with the coil packs so all to do with the ignition circuit. It may be a red herring if there is an intermittent wiring problem which may be what is indicated by the raw coolant signal dropping out.
Until you get the base timing set, I wonder whether it is worth retarding the ignition a touch to try to get rid of the knock. Taking a log every time you drive would be a good idea. Don't worry about the odd ElanScan error message - it is capturing the data at 5 per second with is close to the limit and the loss of one or two data points is neither here nor there.

[texas2201]

The EST is the plate with the coil packs so all to do with the ignition circuit. It may be a red herring if there is an intermittent wiring problem which may be what is indicated by the raw coolant signal dropping out.
Until you get the base timing set, I wonder whether it is worth retarding the ignition a touch to try to get rid of the knock. Taking a log every time you drive would be a good idea. Don't worry about the odd ElanScan error message - it is capturing the data at 5 per second with is close to the limit and the loss of one or two data points is neither here nor there.

OK following some of this - do I retard the ignition by rotating the CAS? if so in what direction?

I can do a log everytime I drive it

[Brit-Car-Nut]

Martin,

Maybe you should you check the Ignition Control Module for corrosion and other connectivity issues due to leakage or "splash" at the coolant tank?

It is not uncommon and often can be cleaned and put back into service.

It is the flat plate component that the coils are bolted to. It is directly under the coolant tank.

If nothing else, you could carefully disconnect the three connectors and look at the connections to see if they are getting cruddy.

If not, you can plug them on and off a few times to "clean" the connections and spray a bit of WD40 on them.

[texas2201]

Martin,

Maybe you should you check the Ignition Control Module for corrosion and other connectivity issues due to leakage or "splash" at the coolant tank?

It is not uncommon and often can be cleaned and put back into service.

It is the flat plate component that the coils are bolted to. It is directly under the coolant tank.

If nothing else, you could carefully disconnect the three connectors and look at the connections to see if they are getting cruddy.

If not, you can plug them on and off a few times to "clean" the connections and spray a bit of WD40 on them.

Yeah I can do that - I had it off when I put the new coil packs on about 2 months ago. No harm doing it again.....well when the rain stops

[Brit-Car-Nut]

If the connection pins were clean, then you probably don't have to check again, but if you are not sure, just clip them on and off a few times.

It is a lot easier to do that on a UK car since the steering column and brake master cylinder isn't in the way.

Were the coil packs replaced because of a running problem or did it run OK and you were just replacing old coils?

By the way, SW Lotus has the best (lowest) price for the Hall Effect repair kit. They have gone obsolete.

[texas2201]

If the connection pins were clean, then you probably don't have to check again, but if you are not sure, just clip them on and off a few times.

It is a lot easier to do that on a UK car since the steering column and brake master cylinder isn't in the way.

Were the coil packs replaced because of a running problem or did it run OK and you were just replacing old coils?

By the way, SW Lotus has the best (lowest) price for the Hall Effect repair kit. They have gone obsolete.

I was trying to cure the misfire so just tried replacing the coils - nothing wrong with the old ones

I will have a look at SW for the HES

[Brit-Car-Nut]

It is part # A100E0102S - £21.75

They have gone obsolete now (along with a good many other important parts).

[dapinky]

Yeah I can do that - I had it off when I put the new coil packs on about 2 months ago. No harm doing it again.....well when the rain stops

Ah, a quick thought, if you have been in that area recently.... when you changed the coils did you fit the screws correctly? There is a small nylon washer which electrically isolates the mounting plate (item 13/14 from this page in the parts manual)....... without them, there can be a few issues with bits of the car having a different earth voltage which wouldn't help.

Untitled.jpg

[Brit-Car-Nut]

There are two different shouldered nylon washers and some flat nylon washers to make sure the plate remains isolated.